A cute little crochet mint leaf!

I’ve been loving gardening lately, especially after being at home so much this year. I’ve started growing four different kinds of mint plants – peppermint, chocolate mint, sweet mint and spearmint!

I’ve been brewing lots of mint tea (recipe below!) with the cuttings from my plants and it inspired me to crochet some little mint leaves! I couldn’t find a pattern for any so I decided to make one up.

Uses for a crochet mint leaf

Little crochet accents like this are great for adding to larger projects. This leaf could be used alongside crocheted flowers for home decor projects like wreathes and tabletop arrangements or it could be sewn next to a crochet rose on a baby hat!

The possibilities are endless and patterns like this crochet mint leaf allow you to get creative.

The Yarn

I used some scrap green yarn I had hanging around – one that’s my own hand dyed yarn in a color from last fall called Lodge and the other is a bit of Lion Brand Heartland in the color Kings Canyon. You could use any yarn to make this crochet mint leaf, I would just reduce the hook size by two or three sizes from what the yarn label recommends to make sure your leaf is stiff enough to hold its shape.

PATTERN

• Get the ad-free, large print, printable PDF pattern HERE.
• Grab the Ultimate Pattern Bundle that includes 150+ patterns just like this one on sale for $20 today HERE.
• PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later HERE.
• Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE.

DESCRIPTION

Free crochet pattern for an accent crochet mint leaf. Use for wreathes or tabletop decor, or to adorn hats, scarves and blankets.

YARN

-Lion Brand Heartland – Kings Canyon
(weight 4 / worsted, 5oz/142g, 251yds/230m)

NOTIONS

–Size H 5mm crochet hook
–Darning needle

NOTES

Finished size: 3 x 2″

Chain stitches and slip stitches do not count as stitches throughout.

Crochet Mint Leaf

Round 1: Ch 6, slip stitch in second stitch from hook, sc, hdc, dc, 4 dc in last, turn slightly to work down other side of foundation ch, 3 dc in same stitch, dc, hdc, sc, slip stitch in last, ch 2, slip stitch to 1st stitch of the round to join <13>

Round 2: Ch 1, slip stitch in next stitch (without skipping any stitches), repeat around, slip stitch to join, finish off and weave ends

Abbreviations (US terms):

ch – chain
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
sc – single crochet
st(s) – stitch(es)
<> – stitch count

Fresh Mint Tea

1. Pick 1/2 cup fresh mint leaves, wash, pat dry, add to teacup or mug
2. Bring water to rolling boil, pour over tea leaves
3. Steep ten minutes
4. Strain or spoon leaves out
5. Add a teaspoon of honey or sugar and stir. Enjoy!

Other Free Crochet Patterns for the Kitchen

1. Crochet Ruffled Trivet / 2. Crochet Double Thick Potholders / 3. Crochet Betty’s Coasters

The post Crochet Mint Leaf (+tea recipe!) appeared first on Sewrella.

What is wet blocking?

There are many types of blocking for finished crochet and knitting projects. One of my favorite methods is called wet blocking.

This is a process of soaking the finished project in a soapy water, removing excess water, pinning it in the perfect shape, and letting it dry. That’s it! There are many tricks of the trade and tips I have for you below in the instructions on materials but at the heart of it, wet blocking is really just that – getting the project wet and then blocking it and letting it dry.

Why do we use wet blocking, anyway?

Wet blocking is a wonderful tool to use if you want your project to maintain a certain, perfect shape. In the video and photos pictured here, I am wet blocking a triangle shawl (pattern coming to the blog soon!) and no matter how even my tension or how deliberately I work my increases to create a perfect triangle – the shape is not perfect straight off the hook.

Blocking helps to achieve perfectly crisp lines along the edges of my shawl and they’ll stay that way wear after wear due to the memory of the fiber.

Another reason we love to wet block projects is that the process allows the fiber to relax. When yarn is manufactured (even high end yarn, but this problem is most prevalent in value yarns) the yarn isn’t allowed to fully bloom when it’s produced. The strand of yarn is wound very tightly and compressed in a ball or skein allowing it very little springiness.

By wet blocking the project, it allows the yarn to open up, to bloom and relax in it’s new home in your project.

When to use the wet blocking method

This particular blocking method is best for yarns made with animal fibers or animal fiber blends. This includes:

• wool
• alpaca
• camel
• yak
• angora
• cashmere
• mohair
• other animal fibers

If most of my project contains animal fiber yarns, I prefer wet blocking that project. The shawl pictured uses equal parts 100% merino wool yarn (my own hand dyed yarn from Handmade Home Fibers) and a cashmere blend yarn (Lion Brand’s Touch of Cashmere). There is some acrylic in this project but it’s mostly animal fiber.

I’ll be posting another video tutorial and blog post on steam blocking next week – that’s my favorite blocking style for synthetic yarns (like acrylic, polyester, nylon and others) and plant based yarns (cotton, bamboo, silk) so watch out for that! If you’re not already on my email list sign up for updates at the bottom of this blog post.

Do I need to wet block every project?

Absolutely not! In my opinion (and this is all opinion based here) some projects don’t need to be blocked at all. If you like the shape, drape, and feel of your project when it’s fresh off the hook then you can move right on with your crafty self! Additionally, some projects do much better with steam blocking as referenced above in the “when to use the wet blocking method” section.

Wet blocking also requires a bit of time. You have to soak your project for no less than 30 minutes, pin it out to dry and then let it sit there overnight. Sometimes we don’t have that kind of time or space to let it sit that long. That’s when steam blocking or no blocking at all come to the rescue.

Another factor to consider when deciding whether or not to block a project is – what did you make? If you want a project to maintain it’s rigidity, it may be a good idea to skip blocking.

Here is a short list of projects I always, sometimes, and never block:

Always: shawls and wraps, scarves, sweaters, cardigans, ponchos, granny squares,
Sometimes: blankets and baby blankets, hats, pillows, kitchen items
Never: amigurumi, tabletop decor (pumpkins, etc), wreaths, baskets, bags

Once I decide where my project fits into these categories, helping me to decide if it needs to be blocked at all, I think about the time I have to let the project block as well as the fiber content of the yarn I used.

Hopefully that information helps you figure out if wet blocking your project is right for you! If it’s not, don’t worry. Just pin this post to your pinterest boards so you don’t forget about it when you do have that special project ready for blocking!

WET BLOCKING CROCHET PROJECTS TUTORIAL

MATERIALS

Eucalan Wool Wash (click here for the mini size which will last a long time for cheaper!)

Knit Blockers

T Pins (or rustproof sewing pins)

Blocking Mats

Tub large enough to hold your project (I have lots of these dishpans around the house and they’re great for EVERYTHING!)

Room temperature water

Measuring tape

Large dry towel

NOTES

You may substitute dish soap for the wool wash however you’ll need to rinse the dish soap out of the project before squeezing out excess water. Additional handling while the project is wet may cause undesirable stretching. I don’t recommend using any soap other than wool wash but it will work in a pinch. Proceed at your own soapy risk!!!

Video Tutorial:

Written instructions:

1. Finish your crochet project and weave all ends
2. Fill tub about halfway with a drop of wool wash and room temperature water
3. Submerge your project and soak for 30 minutes
4. VERY carefully remove your project from it’s bath taking care to handle the weight of the wet project without letting it stretch out (crochet does not bounce back when stretched as knitting does!)
5. Lay out the dry towel and place your wet project on it in a hot dog style fashion
6. Gently roll up your project, squeezing excess water as you go (see video above)
7. Unroll, flip your towel over to the drier side and repeat
8. Discard wet towel and set up blocking mats in the general shape of your project (one set of mats may not be enough for your entire project if it’s large – order additional sets or substitute with another dry towel as I do in the video)
9. Lay out your project, again taking care not to stretch it. Line up any straight edges with the lines on the mats to get perfect shaping. Smooth out the project to lie perfectly flat on the boards.
10. If working with a shawl or sweater or otherwise symmetrical project, pin one side in place using knit blockers. Pin other side in place and measure each side separately to make sure they’re identical. Adjust as needed.
11. Pin the remainder of your project with knit blockers and T pins in the shape you’d like it to remain.
12. Let dry overnight or until project is totally dry to the touch.
13. Unpin and use your project!

There are many steps to blocking but after you’ve done it once, you’ll understand why this extra process at the end of a project makes the finished item even better than it was before!

I hope you enjoyed learning about wet blocking crochet projects – stay tuned for my tutorial on steam blocking!

Projects that are great for wet blocking:

1. Simple Knit Sweater / 2. Crochet Wishing Well Wrap / 3. Crochet Duo Poncho

The post Wet Blocking Crochet Projects appeared first on Sewrella.

Scroll down for the free written instructions and video tutorial or read more below about how to crochet flat circles.

You got skills!

Skills, they’re the building blocks of knowledge. Right? Learning how to crochet a flat circle is one tool that every crocheter should have in their toolbox.

Crocheting a flat circle can come in handy when crocheting just about anything – often you’ll need to know how to crochet a flat circle to begin a crochet hat, to crochet amigurumi toys, to make baskets and other items. This technique is a very useful one to know as a beginner crocheter or for perfecting your skills to work on designing your own pieces.

Increasing the number of techniques you can utilize when crocheting makes following creative patterns more fun! Sometimes when reading a pattern or watching a video tutorial, the teacher may rush through how to crochet a flat circle as part of the project. So it’s really helpful to be able to understand how that shape is made and do it on your own!

Learning how to crochet a flat circle is just one of many techniques every crocheter should know, others include how to keep straight edges in crochet and how to change color in crochet.

What to make with flat circles

Once you’ve mastered how to crochet a flat circle you can put those skills to good use to make all sorts of projects.

I’ve rounded up some of my own favorite patterns using flat circles in the construction for you to peruse. Some of these projects have very obvious flat circle components but others are more hidden!

Just click the links to see the free patterns.

1. Crochet Circle Tote Bag / 2. Crochet Parker Hat / 3. Crochet Happy Monkey

4. Crochet Bunny Lovey / 5. Crochet June Sun Hat / 6. Crochet Rover Circle Bag

The Yarn

In this video tutorial I use Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick & Quick – one of my all-time favorite yarns! It’s great for myriad projects but also for learning new stitches and techniques, like how to crochet a flat circle!

Wool Ease Thick & Quick comes in a ton of beautiful colors and my favorite is the color I used called Fisherman. It’s a stunning off-white that’s not too yellow. It’s a beautiful cream color that fits just about everyone’s taste!

Shop the Wool Ease Thick & Quick yarn here.

How to Crochet a Flat Circle PATTERN

MATERIALS

-Any yarn and corresponding hook size

I used Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick & Quick yarn in the color Fisherman and a K 6.5mm crochet hook

-Stitch marker (a bobbi pin or spare piece of yarn in another color works fine for this)

NOTES

-See abbreviations below the written instructions.
-Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round. Be sure to move it up when you begin each round.
-Numbers within < > indicate the number of final stitches in that round. Be sure to double check your stitch counts so that you make sure you are on track to make a perfect flat circle.
-This pattern creates a circle working in continuous rounds without a seam. If you wish to join your rounds simply slip stitch at the end of each round and chain 1 stitch.
-When the pattern reads “inc, sec 2; rep around” that means: increase (two single crochets in the same stitch) once, single crochet in each of the following two stitches, repeat this entire sequence over and over until you’ve finished the round.
-Save this page to your Pinterest board if you need to watch it often to remember how to make a flat circle.

Video Tutorial:

Written instructions:

Make a magic ring

Round 1: Ch 1, 6 sc into magic ring <6>

Round 2: Inc around <12>

Round 3: Inc, sc; rep around <18>

Round 4: Inc, sc 2; rep around <24>

Round 5: Inc, sc 3; rep around <30>

Continue on in this method by adding one extra sc after the increases and make the flat circle as large as you like – it could keep going forever! I’ll take you through Round 10 here in the written instructions so you can get the hang of it.

Round 6: Inc, sc 4; rep around <36>

Round 7: Inc, sc 5; rep around <42>

Round 8: Inc, sc 6; rep around <48>

Round 9: Inc, sc 7; rep around <54>

Round 10: Inc, sc 8; rep around <60>

Continue.

Abbreviations (US Terms):

ch – chain

inc – increase (2 single crochets in the same stitch)

rep – repeat

sc – single crochet

st(s) – stitch(es)

The post How to Crochet a Flat Circle appeared first on Sewrella.

Read below about the stitch details and the yarn I use to practice stitches or scroll on down for the free video tutorial.

Stitch Details

The thermal stitch is one of the thickest stitches I’ve come across – so much so that it looks woven! A variation on a simple single crochet, I still can’t believe how basic and mindless this stitch is to work – and with such stunning results.

I love using this stitch for my Double Thick Potholder pattern (find it by clicking here) but you could also get creative and use it for blankets, scarves, or other projects that need a little extra thickness.

The Yarn

I love practicing new stitches (and if you’re here reading this, I bet you do too!) but not just any yarn is great for trying out a new technique.

My secret to successful swatch practice? Using super bulky yarn! I always use Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick and Quick for stitch practice for a few reasons.

• The category 6 super bulky yarn creates super bulky stitches – it’s easier to visualize how the stitch behaves and where I need to place my hook when I’m a little outside my comfort zone.
• This yarn is very accessible. If you don’t already have some in your stash, it’s sold at almost every yarn store that sells Lion Brand yarn. I often find it on sale too!
• It has great stitch definition. It’s harder to get familiar with a new stitch when you use yarn that’s super fuzzy or has too much texture to it. This one is perfect.

So grab your Wool Ease Thick and Quick yarn and settle in with the video tutorial to learn to crochet the thermal stitch.

Note: In this video I’m using the gorgeous color Succulent.

OTHER EASY FREE CROCHET PATTERNS YOU MIGHT LOVE

1. Crochet Vanilla Wrap Scarf / 2. Crochet Avery Hat / 3. Crochet Collar Topper

The post Crochet Thermal Stitch Tutorial appeared first on Sewrella.

1. Different Tools

The most striking difference between knitting and crochet is the tools you use for each craft. Knitting is performed by holding your stitches on a needle and working the yarn through them with the other needle, thus transferring the stitches from one needle to the other as you complete rows. Your work will stay on at least one needle until you bind off the stitches, thus preventing them from becoming unraveled. There are many different types, styles, and sizes of knitting needles: straight needles, circular needles, double-pointed needles, cable needles, metal needles, bamboo needles. . . the list goes on and on!

However, crocheting is done with the use of a crochet hook. Multiple stitches are almost never kept on the hook at the same time, with Tunisian crochet being an exception to this rule. Because each stitch is worked completely and closed off before moving to the next stitch, crochet projects are a bit more difficult to unravel (Yay!)! Finally, while there is some variety among crochet hooks, particularly with length, quality, and material, the basic shape stays the same for most, if not all, applications.

3. Different Applications

Finally, because of the major differences in the fabric created by knitting versus that of crochet, you tend to see the two crafts used in different applications. As previously discussed, knit fabric tends to be lighter and more “flowy” than crochet fabric, so it is typically used for more accessories and garments, while I’ve noticed that the firmer, more yarn-consuming crochet material is more often used for amigurumi figures and home decor. Of course, I don’t mean to imply that knitting isn’t often used for pillows and blankets, or that crochet is unsuitable for cozy wearables! So many amazing designers, like our good friend Sewrella, have made beautiful, cleverly designed knitting and crochet patterns of ALL types. What a time to be a maker!

To sum up, there are quite a few differences between knitting and crochet projects! Both are made with unique tools and create completely different fabrics that are sometimes used for strategically chosen types of projects. However, the good news is that at the end of the day, whether you know how to knit, crochet, or both, you have the amazing power to turn a ball of string into literally anything with your own two hands.

The post The Difference Between Knitting and Crochet appeared first on Sewrella.

Granny squares are the cornerstone of crochet. They are what our grandmothers (or in my case my great great grandmother!) crocheted blankets for us out of in bright colors with soft, careful stitches.

They’re that thing that most of us learn to crochet first.

Maybe you learned to make the traditional kind with chain spaces on the sides, or you learned this way – the solid square.

I’ve got a tutorial on the traditional square HERE and below is the video and pattern for the solid square!

I love granny squares because they can be so versatile! Make a whole blanket using this square pattern, get creative with color changes, and have fun!

It’s the next episode of my new series, Stitch Dictionary – the place where you can find tons of new, unique stitches to try!

For each of these stitch swatches, I’ll be working up an 11 x 11″ swatch in Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick & Quick in varying colors, eventually joining my swatches together to form a Stitch Dictionary Throw blanket!

Follow along and make your swatches with me.

PATTERN

Materials:

-Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick & Quick in Fisherman & Fig

-Size N/P 10mm crochet hook

-Large eye tapestry needle

Round 1: With Fisherman Ch 4, sl st into first st to form a ring, Ch 2, working into the ring 2 Dc, Ch 3, 3 Dc, Ch 3, 3 Dc, Ch 3, 3 Dc, Ch 3, sl st to top of first Dc of the Round, Ch 2

Round 2: Dc in each st around, (Dc, Ch 3, Dc) in each Ch 3 space, sl st to top of first Dc of the round, Ch 2

Repeat Round 2 until desired size

*I changed color to Fig for Round 7

Finish off, weave ends

The post How to Crochet a Solid Granny Square appeared first on Sewrella.

I have the ultimate trick for you all – you’re gonna love it!

Below I have an in-depth photo tutorial & video tutorial for my favorite color changing method.

I change colors a lot in crochet and was always afraid of stripes before trying out this trick – now I’m hooked and never going back!

It’s worth mentioning that this trick will work perfectly at the end of a row (as pictured), in the middle of your work, or even working in the round!

The post Magic Crochet Color Change appeared first on Sewrella.

Have you ever approached a crochet project that includes a square or rectangle shaped piece and you wind up with wonky edges? Or the dreaded trapezoid shape?

I’ll tell you a quick story, my first ever crochet blanket attempt wound up being a trapezoid. I didn’t know where to place the first and last stitches in each row and because I wasn’t stitching in the right places, the whole thing quickly went downhill. I wound up with a blanket that was much smaller on one end and a lot of frustration.

I’ve learned a lot since then and finished many a project with perfectly straight edges – it really is very simple if you know where to stitch! (However with no one to show me and at the mercy of YouTube, this took a while to figure out on my own)

Follow this strategy with any crochet project – and be sure to share this tutorial with friends new to crochet!

(I’m using some Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton and my Clover Amour C hook – working on an ornament for the Christmas Traditions Ornament Crochet-A-Long!)

Also, you can follow this strategy from your first row above your starting chain but it is most important to just be consistent throughout your project – stitch this way on every row!

Beginning with a piece of crochet work, look at the row of stitches you’ve just made. Identify your turning chain (in this case, the Chain 1 that we made at the end of the last row, and then we turned our work)

Now look for the very first stitch after the turning chain, here is where you’ll make your first stitch (doesn’t matter what type of stitch it is!)

Now stitch in every stitch across. Notice that as you keep stitching it pulls the edge on the right into place and is looking mighty straight!

Now we are at the end of the row and have two stitches left – we will stitch once in each of these. BE SURE NOT TO STITCH IN THE TURNING CHAIN FROM THE ROW BEFORE!

Now that all of our stitches are done for this row, all that’s left is our turning chain – Ch 1 and turn!

Look at how pretty and straight those edges are – yay!

Don’t forget to PIN this tutorial to your Pinterest boards!

I hope this tutorial helped you make super clean work!

The post Crochet Tips – Straight Edges Everytime appeared first on Sewrella.

Click HERE for the $1.99 large print, ad-free, pdf Pattern!

Today begins my one week long Granny Square Crochet-A-Long with the Craft Yarn Council for Anti-Boredom Month – yay!

Check back here on the blog every day for a new granny square pattern! I’m super excited for you all to see the goodies in store this week – you’re gonna love em!

 

For now, I want to start with a very basic granny square pattern. It is a very traditional style using a surprising yarn – Red Heart Grande Metallic! This yarn is cuddly and squishy with just a hint of sparkle – basically if I were a yarn I’d be this yarn. And those colors! I want to use it forever. Infinite skein please.

Enjoy this one!

PATTERN

Size: 8 in. by 8 in.

Materials:
-Jumbo weight (category 7) yarn,
I used Red Heart Grande Metallic
in Straw, Smoke, Mulberry, Vista,
and Wisteria
-Size P 11.5mm crochet hook
-Extra large tapestry needle

Begin with a slip knot, Ch 6, Sl St into first Ch (next
to the slip knot) to form a ring, Ch 2

Round 1: 2 Dc into ring, Ch 3, 3 Dc into ring, Ch 3, 3
Dc into ring, Ch 3, 3 Dc in ring, Ch 3, sl st into top of
first Dc in the round, sl st in next Dc, sl st into first
Ch 3 space, Ch 2

 

 

Round 2: (2 Dc, Ch 3, 3 Dc) into Ch space, Ch 1, *(3
Dc, Ch 3, 3 Dc) in Ch space, Ch 1, repeat from * twice more, sl st into top of first Dc in the round, sl st
into the next Dc, sl st into first Ch 3 space, Ch 2

 

 

Round 3: (2 Dc, Ch 3, 3 Dc) into Ch space, Ch 1, *3
Dc in Ch 1 space, Ch 1, (3 Dc, 3 Ch, 3 Dc) in Ch 3
space, Ch 1, repeat from * twice more, sl st into top
of first Dc in the round, sl st into the next Dc, sl st
into the first Ch 3 space, finish off, weave ends 

Don’t forget to PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards so you don’t lose it!

 

That’s all folks! Make a bunch of these, sew ’em all up, and that, my friend, is a recipe for snuggling!

 

The post Jumbo Cuddly Granny Square with Red Heart Grande appeared first on Sewrella.

Today I have a fun roundup for you along with a sneak preview of the Summer Kitchen Series Finale! (Watch out for its debut in July!)

Below are 20 fun, unique crochet stitches to try on your next project!

They range from beginner friendly to more complex, and the links provided feature instructions or tutorials on the stitches.

Practice these stitches, as all 20 of them will be used in the Summer Kitchen Series finale – the 20 stitch table runner! A sampler that will be oh so fun to make.

& once you have some beautiful stitches practiced, your crochet skills honed, and ideas abounding – start your own DIY blog to post your projects!

Follow my 3 step beginner’s guide HERE

1. Harlequin Stitch

http://www.finecraftguild.com/harlequin-stitch-crochet-baby-blanket/

The post 20 Most Eye-Catching Crochet Stitches appeared first on Sewrella.