I’d always heard of blogging, heck – I read a lot of blogs for recipes, crochet patterns, DIY ideas, and other things. I was a Pinterest junkie since way back when you had to be “invited” to have a Pinterest profile circa 2010 (anybody remember that?!). I’ve always been crafty and creative but I never had an outlet for it in a way that could make a large impact on my life. I just picked up random crafty hobbies throughout the years like sewing my own dresses out of quilting cotton and going crazy with creative Christmas gift wrapping.

I taught myself to crochet (and ultimately knit) on youtube while my great grandmother Betty was in the hospital with a failing heart. All there was to do was to sit around and wait for doctors and tests to tell us what we already knew: we were losing the matriarch of our family. I needed something to focus on and since Betty had been the craftiest lady I’d ever known (she never crocheted or knit but she did extensive cross stitch, embroidery, and TONS of sewing – including my mom’s bridesmaids’ dresses!) so I wanted to pick up a hobby that made me feel more connected to her before she was gone.

I remember wondering the craft store in a daze, looking for something I could do while waiting at the hospital. Sewing was out, I couldn’t bring a sewing machine to the waiting room. Cross stitch seemed too focused, I needed something more repetitive. Then I saw a skein of Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick & Quick on an endcap. The elusive fisherman colorway was in my hands before I knew it. I didn’t know to read the yarn label to see what hook size to buy so I picked up a Susan Bates N hook just because it was gold.

I went home and watched hours of youtube videos and learned the basic stitches. Before I knew it I had a scarf going and I haven’t stopped crocheting since. Betty passed away about a week later and I crocheted on the drive to and from her funeral services. In some ways it feels like I’ll crochet forever just to keep a piece of her with me.

Fast forward about two years later, as I am in college studying English Literature and working hard at craft coffee shops around town, all the while crocheting constantly. I was even called “grandma” lovingly by my other young coworkers. When I got pregnant with my partner of about seven years, it was a surprise and an awakening. I realized two things pretty quickly:

1. I didn’t love the life I was working toward. I had no desire to move up through the ranks at the coffee shop and I remained focused on school. But I was studying to eventually become an english teacher, a dream that didn’t feel like it quite fit. Although I loved books and learning, I always dreamed of doing something very creative with my life. I secretly hoped that I would write the great American novel while teaching and eventually slip out of that confined job. Though those are lofty expectations with a baby on the way and only a half finished english degree.
2. I needed a good paying job, and fast. Minimum wage plus tips wasn’t going to cut it and while by husband was busy building his business from the ground up (now a larger-than-life printing business) I needed to try to fill in the gaps.

While I was pregnant I knew I had a shot. A short window of a few months that I could dedicate to trying to build something. When my fall semester ended, I left school and the coffee shop with a dream and a crazy work ethic. I told myself this:

If I can make enough money to buy our groceries by the time the baby comes in May then I will keep going with whatever this creative idea turns out to be. And if it ever stops making money I will go back to my normal life.

But what creative idea do I run with? What could I turn into an income?

I’d been reading a lot of crochet blog over the last couple of years since I’d begun crocheting but even more so after I got pregnant as I made things for the baby. I thought to myself that these men and women that write these blogs just started them one day. They didn’t have any more training than I do now so let’s see if I can do the same thing. I’d already been making up some of my own patterns when I couldn’t find what I wanted online so I felt it could work.

I created my crochet blog website, Sewrella.com, on Christmas Day of 2015 (did I mention my crazy work ethic? Who starts a business on Christmas Day??). I spent the first several weeks figuring out how to post a crochet blog post and write a pattern, though I still had a lot to figure out on my own that took YEARS to master.

I worked diligently at creating patterns for my crochet blog, from scarves to granny square tutorials, and even intricate blankets. I worked seven days a week and I created dozens of crochet blog posts by the time the baby came in May. During that month I made $800 from my crochet blog and it was determined that I could keep blogging as long as it kept making money to help support my family.

Sewrella has earned more money every month since then as I’ve continued to build a repertoire of blog posts, tutorials, and designs even working with big companies like Lion Brand Yarn, JOANN, and Michaels Stores.

Oh yeah, back to walking down the streets of New York with Lion Brand – this was a little over a year after I started blogging. For some reason they saw my granny squares and my tenacity and though I deserved a seat at that table. I’m still not sure what potential they saw back then, since I still had SO much to figure out. But they saw it and they knew where I could go.

Over the last few years this crochet blog has turned into something I never thought possible. It’s afforded me a comfortable financial life – something that seemed so far out of reach when I found out I was pregnant without a concrete plan – and it’s given me the creative freedom that feeds my soul. It has not been without hard, consistent work but MAN has it been worth it.

After sharing my story, I’ve been asked a lot of specific questions about how I got from A to Z. How I went from starting my crochet blog on Christmas Day four years ago to making a six-figure income. The dos and don’ts of writing a crochet pattern. How to work with brands. How to take beautiful photos. How to use social media in ways that will amplify my blog instead of just waste time.

I’ve written a comprehensive online course that answers all of these questions and lots more, The Sewrella Method. I talk in depth about the big wins and the even bigger misses so that you don’t have to figure it out alone.

There is also a wonderfully engaged online forum called the Neighborhood that’s a place to talk with like-minded students about course content as well as your own personal journeys. It’s a place to ask questions, share ideas, and work together toward our own common goal of being amazing crochet bloggers.

If you aren’t sure, no sweat! Check out the chapter previews and course quiz on the Sewrella Method website to see if it’s a good fit. We’ll be here when you’re ready.

The post My Journey to Sewrella appeared first on Sewrella.

Read through my inspiration, design process, and lots of info on the perfect yarn I chose, or scroll on down for the free pattern.

The Inspiration + Design

It had been about a year since making my last crochet cardigan so I knew it was time for another! This time with lacy stitches and a flowy bohemian sleeve that’s cool and comfortable.

It was hard to choose what types of crochet lace stitches to use for this sweater. Being that we’re making a garment, I didn’t want to do anything too complicated just so that the pattern was easy to follow. I chose a simple V stitch for the bodice, some waist detail in simple double crochet with a simple fan stitch section at the hip. This same sequence is repeated in the sleeve and I love the extremely feminine, dainty look of the whole sweater!

Can a beginner really make this crochet cardigan?

I believe the answer is yes! I designed this cardigan to consist of only rectangle shaped pieces. If you are comfortable with the V stitch and fan stitches used in the pattern, you can make this project. There is no fussy shaping or increases/decreases to make it confusing. That drape and fit is all a product of the yarn I chose, not fancy shaping!

The Yarn

I chose to use Lion Brand Truboo for this project. It’s a newer yarn that launched earlier this year and I hadn’t gotten a chance to try it out yet so I used the Mauve skeins in my stash to work on my sweater! Let me tell you guys, this was absolutely the right yarn for this piece. It’s so silky and soft with excellent drape and movement. It’s extremely comfortable to wear as well as a pleasure to crochet with.

I can’t stress to you enough how much I LOVE the color palette of Truboo yarn. There are loads of options from dusty neutrals to bright summer tones so you can really choose a color to fit any style.

PATTERN

• Get the ad-free, large print, printable PDF pattern HERE.
• Grab the Ultimate Pattern Bundle that includes 150+ patterns just like this one on sale for $20 today HERE.
• PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later HERE.
• Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE.

Description:

An oversized lacy crochet cardigan for the summer months inspired by the delicate beauty of my garden. This project has just enough interest with two different lace stitches to keep it engaging without being complicated – it’s made entirely from rectangles! Lightweight Truboo yarn is silky and light on the skin with breathable texture to keep you cool and comfortable. Loose boho sleeves nod to the laid back look and are surprisingly easy to make.

Materials:

–Lion Brand Truboo yarn
(Weight 3/light, 3.5 oz/100g, 241 yds/220 m)

(5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 10) skeins in Mauve

Or (1120, 1290, 1450, 1570, 1800, 1980, 2220, 2410) yds

–Size H 5mm crochet hook

–Tapestry needle

–Measuring tape

Shop all of my favorite tools & materials HERE!

Sizes:

XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL

Gauge:

18 sts x 8 rows in dc = 4″

Finished Sweater Measurements:

Bust: (32, 36, 40, 42.5, 48, 52, 57.5, 61.5)
Length: (29.5, 30, 30.5, 31, 31.5, 32, 32.5, 33)
Sleeve (to underarm): (12.5, 13, 13.5, 14, 14.5, 15, 15.5, 16)
Armhole: (8, 8.5, 9, 10, 10, 10.5, 11, 11)

Skill Level:

Level 2 – Easy

Pattern Notes

-Sweater is shown in size M, model is 5’5” tall and true bust measures 38” for reference. This pattern has 10” positive ease built in. Size down for a more fitted look.

-Sizing listed in the pattern will be in XS, Small, Medium, Large, XL, 2XL, 3XL, and 4XL listed in parenthesis such as (95, 106, 117, 128, 139, 150, 161, 170) whereas 95 for size XS, 106 for size S, 117 for size M, 128 for size L, 139 for size XL, 150 for size 2XL, 161 for size 3XL and 170 for 4XL. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, print the pattern and circle/highlight all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.

-Pattern is worked in flat panels from the top down – 1 back panel and 2 front panels. 2 identical sleeve panels that are all assembled in the final step.

-Ch 3 counts as a stitch throughout.

Hydrangea Crochet Cardigan

Back Panel
*make 1

V Stitch Section

Ch (74, 80, 92, 98, 110, 116, 128, 140)

Row 1: Skip 3 sts (counts as a stitch throughout), Dc in fourth ch from hook, ch 1, skip 2, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next stitch, *skip 2, (dc, ch 1, dc; rep from * until 4 stitches remain, ch 1, skip 2, dc in last 2 stitches, turn <52, 56, 64, 68, 76, 80, 88, 96 dc>

Row 2: Ch 3, dc, ch 1, skip to center ch 1 of V stitch, *(dc, ch 1, dc) into ch 1 space; rep from * in all V stitches across to last V stitch, ch 1, dc in last two stitches, turn

Rep row 2 until panel measures (13, 13.5, 14, 14.5, 15, 15.5, 16, 16.5)” or you’ve completed (26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33) rows.

Waist

Rows 1-2: Ch 2, dc in each st acrss (including all ch-1 spaces), turn <72, 78, 90, 96, 108, 114, 126, 138 dc>

Rows 3-4: Ch 3, dc, ch 1, *skip 2, (dc, ch 1, dc) into next stitch; rep from * until 4 stitches remain, ch 1, skip 2, dc in last 2 stitches, turn <52, 56, 64, 68, 76, 80, 88, 96 dc>

Rows 5-6: Ch 2, dc in each st acrss (including all ch-1 spaces), turn <72, 78, 90, 96, 108, 114, 126, 138 dc>

Fan Stitch Section

Row 1: Ch 2, dc in the first stitch, ch 2, skip 2, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next stitch, *ch 2, skip 5, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next stitch; rep from * until 3 stitches remain, ch 2, skip 2, dc in last stitch, turn <52, 56, 64, 68, 76, 80, 88, 96 dc>

Row 2: Ch 2, dc in first stitch, *ch 2, skip to center ch-1 of next fan stitch, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) into ch-1 space; rep from * across, ch 2, skip to dc in last stitch, turn

Rep row 2 until panel measures 11.5″ or  23 rows.

Front Panels
*make 2

Ch (38, 44, 50, 50, 56, 62, 68, 71)

Repeat V Stitch, Waist and Fan stitch section as for back panel.

Sleeves
*make 2

Ch (80, 86, 92, 98, 98, 104, 110, 110)

Repeat V stitch section until panel measures (5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5)” or (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17) rows.

Repeat all of Waist section.

Repeat Fan Stitch Section until panel measures 5″ or 9 rows.

ASSEMBLY

Shoulder seams: Lie back panel with wrong side up, lie front panels with wrong side up aligning the foundation chains to sew shoulder seams. Sew with a whip stitch. Weave ends.

Sleeve seams: Leaving front and back panels as they are, lie sleeve panels with wrong sides up on either side as pictured. Align center of the sleeves with shoulder seams by measuring the center or counting stitches in from each side. Place a stitch marker to keep this in place if you like. Sew with a whip stitch. Weave ends

Side seams: Fold sweater longways along the shoulder seam as pictured. It should look more like a cardigan now!

Sew with a whip stitch along the side seam, to the underarm, and along the sleeve seam. Weave ends.

Abbreviations (US terms):

ch – chain
dc – double crochet
sk – skip
st(s) – stitch(es)
<> – stitch count

OTHER FREE CARDIGAN PATTERNS

1. Crochet Everyday Cotton Cadigan / 2. Knit Betty Cardigan / 3. Crochet Slouchy Stripe Cardigan

The post Hydrangea Crochet Cardigan appeared first on Sewrella.

Read through my inspiration, design process, and lots of info on the perfect yarn I chose, or scroll on down for the free pattern.

The Inspiration + Design

I’ve always wanted to make a pumpkin colored sweater. One that I would pull out every year to signal the first seasonal change to fall. Turning leaves, a brisk chill in the air, some apple cider and my pumpkin colored sweater.

With that in mind, I knew I wanted my sweater to be warm but light so that I could layer it with lighter shirts underneath or a jacket on top for when the temperature changes. I also wanted this sweater to be oversized and comfy – knowing that I usually catch a cold this time of year I needed something extra cozy!

So I built that comfort right into the sweater. I chose a fluffy yarn and worked plenty of inches of room into the design and I’m so happy with the result!

The Yarn

I’ve loved Lion Brand’s LB Collection Chainette yarn since it came out last year (I’ve already made a hat and a shawl with it!) so I knew a knit sweater in this yarn would be dreamy.

I was picky about this sweater being the *right* shade of pumpkin. Not too red, not too yellow, not too bright orange. And this Amber color of Chainette really, truly, is everything I wanted! It’s vibrant but muted and heathered and gorgeous. It’s everything I wanted and I couldn’t be happier with my new sweater!

All the colors of Chainette are truly gorgeous – I rarely love every single color in a yarn line but with this one, I really do! So even if you aren’t looking for an orange sweater, try out another color because the fluff and lightweight warmth of this yarn is unmatched.

PATTERN

• Get the ad-free, large print, printable PDF pattern HERE.
• Grab the Ultimate Pattern Bundle that includes 150+ patterns just like this one on sale for $20 today HERE.
• PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later HERE.
• Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE.

DESCRIPTION

This sweater is so soft it’ll make you say “oh my gourd!” Simple stockinette stitches and easy 1×1 ribbing are all it takes to whip up this snuggly autumn garment.

MATERIALS

–Lion Brand Collection Chainette Yarn

(Weight 4/Medium, 1.75 oz/50 g, 131 yds/120 m)

7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10) balls in Amber

Grab the kit that includes a printed copy of the pattern here!

–Size 8/5mm circular knitting needles with 16” and 20” or longer cords

–Tapestry needle

SIZES

XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL

GAUGE (after blocking)

15 sts x 20 rows = 4″ in stockinette stitch

FINISHED SWEATER MEASUREMENTS

PATTERN NOTES

-For reference, model is 5’5” tall, and wearing the Knit Oh My Gourd Sweater in a size Medium. Fit is oversized, for a more fitted sweater size down.

-The gauge, size, and fit of this finished sweater is largely impacted by blocking. I steam block (steam the panels before seaming with an iron on the steam setting or a clothing steamer) and again after the piece is finished. Be sure to block your swatch.

-Sizing listed in the pattern will be in X-Small with Small, Medium, Large, Xl, 2X, and 3X listed in parenthesis such as 72 (82, 90, 100, 108, 118, 126) whereas co 72 for size XS, 82 for size S, 90 for size M, 100 for size L, 108 for size XL, 118 for size 2X and 126 for size 3X. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle/highlight all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.

-This pullover sweater is worked in 4 pieces, the front and back panels, 2 sleeve panels then seamed together. Neckline ribbing is worked last by picking up stitches.

-All sizing is a bit oversized and based on the CYC sizing regulations.

OH MY GOURD SWEATER PATTERN

BACK PANEL

Co 72 (82, 90, 100, 108, 118, 126) sts

Ribbing

Rows 1-16: K1, P1, rep across

Body
RS Row: K across

WS Row: P across

Work even until your panel is 18 (19, 20, 20.5, 21, 21.5, 21.5)” from ribbing or until you’ve completed 90 (96, 100, 102, 106, 108, 108) rows of stockinette stitch

Cast off all sts

FRONT PANEL

Co 72 (82, 90, 100, 108, 118, 126) sts

Ribbing

Rows 1 – 16: K1, P1, rep across

Body
RS Row: K across

WS Row: P across

Work even until your panel is 18 (19, 20, 20.5, 21, 21.5, 21.5)” from ribbing or until you’ve completed 80 (86, 90, 92, 96, 98, 98) rows of stockinette stitch.

Continue to shoulder shaping without breaking yarn.

SHOULDER SHAPING

Split for Shoulders

Row 1 (RS): K 21 (24, 27, 30, 32, 35, 38) sts, bind off 30 (34, 36, 40, 44, 48, 50) sts for the neckline, K remaining 21 (24, 27, 30, 32, 35, 38) sts for the other shoulder.

Side #1

Row 2 (WS): P 19 (22, 25, 28, 30, 33, 36), P2tog TBL, leave remaining sts on the needle unworked (finish one shoulder at a time)

Row 3: K across

Row 4: P until 2 sts remain, P2tog TBL <19, 22, 25, 28, 30, 33, 36>

Rep Rows 3-4 three more times.

Cast off all sts on that shoulder side.

Side #2

Row 2 (WS): Join yarn to other WS shoulder at what will become the neckline, P2tog first 2 sts remaining on the needle, P remaining 19 (22, 25, 28, 30, 33, 36) sts

Row 3 (RS): K across

Row 4: P2tog, P remaining sts <19, 22, 25, 28, 30, 33, 36>

Rep Rows 3-4 three more times.

Cast off all sts.

SLEEVES

*make 2

Co 28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts

Ribbing

Rows 1 – 16: K1, P1, rep across

Body
Row 11 (RS): KFB, K to last stitch, KFB <30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42>

Row 12 (WS): P across

Rep Rows 11-12 until your stitch count reaches 54 (58, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80)

Continue working in stockinette (knit a row, purl a row) until your sleeve

measures 16 (16.5, 16.5, 17, 17, 17.5, 17.5)”

Cast off all sts.

SEAMING

Lie back panel with WS up, lie front panel on top with RS up.

Shoulder seams: Sew front shoulder shaping with a mattress stitch to back panel. Rep on other side.

Side seams: Leave a 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5)” armhole from the shoulder seam, mattress stitch from the bottom of the armhole to the end of the ribbing. Rep on other side.

Weave all ends.

Sleeve seams: With right sides together folded lengthwise (hot dog style), sew selvedge edge with a whip stitch. Continue sewing last row of sleeve to armhole with WS (sleeve and body) facing out.

Turn sweater right side out.

NECKLINE RIBBING

Pick up sts evenly around neckline – beginning with one shoulder seam.

The final stitch count here isn’t as important as working evenly around – make sure to work into the cast off of each stitch as well as evenly along decreases and shoulder seams. Be sure you pick up an even number of stitches.

Ribbing

Rows 1 – 10: K1, P1, rep across

Cast off, weave all ends.

Abbreviations (US Terms):

co – cast on

k – knit

K2tog – knit two together

Kfb – knit front back

p – purl

P2tog TBL – purl 2 together through the back loop

rep – repeat

rs – right side

st(s) – stitch(es)

ws – wrong side

OTHER FREE SWEATER PATTERNS FOR FALL

1. Crochet Everyday Cotton Cadigan / 2. Knit Betty Cardigan / 3. Crochet Slouchy Stripe Cardigan

The post Knit Oh My Gourd Sweater appeared first on Sewrella.

Read through my inspiration, design process, and lots of info on the perfect yarn I chose, or scroll on down for the free pattern.

The Inspiration + Design

When I made my Crochet Magic Stripe Sweater earlier this year and I loved it so much I made a second more fitted version. This sweater is almost the same apart from the measurements

This time around I used grey, black and cream for a more monochrome look and changed up the stripe pattern just for fun! I also made a size smaller than the first sample and shortened the body and sleeves by omitting rows. Find the original pattern in it’s entirety below!

Although this sweater looks chunky and warm, it’s actually incredibly lightweight and breezy due to the thin yarn I used. Tiny yarns take a long time to work up but they create the most gorgeous effect in a finished piece and they’re necessary for summer projects!

I chose to do some random striping and didn’t quite know how to lay them out. So I found a “stripe generator” online to help! You enter the number of rows you’ll be working for your chosen size/fit and the colors you’re working with and you can create stripe patterns with the click of a button! So neat, it’s like magic! Check that out HERE.

The Yarn

This sweater design uses a new yarn from Lion Brand called Beautiful You – it’s a category 2 weight acrylic yarn that has a very tight twist to it for great stitch definition and beautiful drape! The acrylic is really soft against the skin and this line comes in some gorgeous color options – that’s part of the reason why I wanted to create a truly customizable design!

You can work with one solid color and follow this pattern, work with 2 colors evenly striped, 3 or more colors randomly striped – you could even create a pretty rainbow of stripes! It’s all up to you and your personal style.

Even though this project is super unique to you, Lion Brand has created a kit in the blue/pink color option as well as the silver/black option pictured for the neutral lovers. Grab the kit here that comes with a printed copy of the pattern.

If you’re customizing and choosing your own palette, pick up a la carte Beautiful You yarn you need here!

PATTERN

• Get the ad-free, large print, printable PDF pattern HERE.
• Grab the Ultimate Pattern Bundle that includes 150+ patterns just like this one on sale for $20 today HERE.
• PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later HERE.
• Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE.

To sum it up:

Simple and chic – the Monochrome Sweater is a calming mindless make. Lots of basic stitches and drop sleeve construction make for a netflix-able project – you’ll wonder how you wound up with a sweater that looks store bought!

Materials:

–Lion Brand Beautiful You yarn (Weight: 2/Fine – 3.5oz, 326 yds)

Meteorite (Color A) – 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) skeins
Glacier Grey (Color B) – 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) skeins
Sugar Swizzle (Color C) – 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) skeins

OR 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) skeins of any color to make a solid colored sweater

–Size C 2.75mm crochet hook

–Tapestry needle

–Measuring tape

Shop all of my favorite tools & materials HERE!

Sizes:

XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL

Gauge:

22 sts x 16 rows in BLO Hdc = 4″

Finished Sweater Measurements:

Bust: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58)”
Length: 18 (18.5, 19, 19.5, 20, 20.5, 21)”
Sleeve (to underarm): 16 (16.5, 16.5, 17, 17, 17.5, 17.5)”
Armhole: 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5)”

Skill Level:

Level 2 – Easy

Pattern Notes

-Sweater is shown in size S, model is 5’5” tall and true bust measures 38” for reference.

-Sweater is intended to have lots of room and slouchy fit. If you are between sizes, size up for an even more oversized fit or size down for a slightly slimmer fit. I sized down to a small for a more fitted look.

-Sizing listed in the pattern will be in XS, Small, Medium, Large, XL, 2XL, and 3XL listed in parenthesis such as 95 (106, 117, 128, 139, 150, 161)) whereas 95 for size XS, 106 for size S, 117 for size M, 128 for size L, 139 for size XL, 150 for size 2XL and 161 for size 3XL. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, print the pattern and circle/highlight all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.

-Pattern is worked in flat panels from the bottom up – 2 front and back panels & 2 identical sleeve panels that are all seamed together at the end before working the collar neckline. Hemline ribbing and sleeve ribbing is sewn on pre-assembly.

-Body colorwork requires changing color every few rows. I suggest carrying your yarn up the side of your work loosely to maintain good tension and reduce the number of ends you must weave later. When changing color, always join new color before Ch 2 and turn of following Row.

-I used www.RandomStripes.com to map out the random stripe pattern of my sweater. You can follow my stripe instructions below to make a sweater that looks just like mine or play with your own stripe design.

-You may not need all 3 skeins of each color included in your kit for this pattern. However I’ve set up the kit to have equal amounts of yarn in each color so that you may decide on your own stripe pattern and have plenty of yarn. Use your extras for other projects or start on another sweater!

-In this pattern, Color A is Black, Color B is Silver, Color C is Sugar Swizzle.

-Anytime the pattern indicates you work a row of BLO Hdc I recommend making the last stitch of that row a regular Hdc through both loops. This will keep your edges more solid and easier to sew later.

-All pattern instructions will be listed for different sizes in ( ). All final stitch counts will be listed in < >.

– View the Magic Stripe Sweater pattern HERE for a step-by-step photo tutorial on a very similar sweater.

Crochet Monochrome Sweater

Front Panel

Body:

With Color A, Ch 95 (106, 117, 128, 139, 150, 161)

Row 1: Hdc in the 3rd st from hook and in each across <93, 104, 115, 126, 137, 148, 159>

Row 2: Ch 2, t, Hdc in each st across <93, 104, 115, 126, 137, 148, 159>

Rep Row 2 following stripe guide below until you’ve finished 58 rows

Stripe Guide:

*This guide begins with Row 1 of the body that you’ve already made with Color A

4 Rows: Color A

4 Rows: Color C

3 Rows: Color A

3 Rows: Color B

2 Rows: Color A

4 Rows: Color C

6 Rows: Color B

3 Rows: Color C

3 Rows: Color A

4 Rows: Color C

3 Rows: Color B

2 Rows: Color A

2 Rows: Color C

5 Rows: Color A

4 Rows: Color B

6 Rows: Color C

2 (4, 6, 8, 10, 10, 10) Rows: Color B

Sizes 2XL-3XL only: (2, 4) Rows: Color A

Shoulder Shaping:

Change to Color A

Row 1: Ch 2, t, Hdc next 24 (27, 30, 32, 35, 38, 41) sts <24, 27, 30, 32, 35, 38, 41>

Row 2: t, Sk 1 st, Hdc to end <23, 26, 29, 31, 34, 37, 40>

Row 3: Ch 2, t, Hdc next 22 (25, 28, 30, 33, 36, 39) sts <22, 25, 28, 30, 33, 36, 39>

Row 4: t, Sk 1 st, Hdc to end <21, 24, 27, 29, 32, 35, 38>

Change to Color B

Row 5: Ch 2, t, Hdc next 20 (23, 26, 28, 31, 34, 37) sts <20, 23, 26, 28, 31, 34, 37>

Row 6: t, Sk 1 st, Hdc to end <19, 22, 25, 27, 30, 33, 36>

Finish off, weave ends.

Continuing from where you worked your last st from Row 1 of Shoulder Shaping, sk 45 (50, 55, 62, 67, 72, 77) sts

Join Color A yarn to next st, pull up loosely on loop (do not chain)

Row 1: Hdc in same st as join and in each across to end <24, 27, 30, 32, 35, 38, 41>

Row 2: Ch 2, t, Hdc next 23 (26, 29, 31, 34, 37, 40) sts <23, 26, 29, 31, 34, 37, 40>

Row 3: t, Sk 1 st, Hdc to end <22, 25, 28, 30, 33, 36, 39>

Row 4: Ch 2, t, Hdc next 21 (24, 27, 29, 32, 35, 38) sts <21, 24, 27, 29, 32, 35, 38>

Change to Color B

Row 5: t, Sk 1 st, Hdc to end <20, 23, 26, 28, 31, 34, 37>

Row 6: Ch 2, t, Hdc next 19 (22, 25, 27, 30, 33, 36) sts <19, 22, 25, 27, 30, 33, 36>

Finish off, weave ends.

Back Panel:

Rep front panel pattern to end of 58 Rows and stripe guide.

Continue:

4 Rows: Color A

2 Rows: Color B

Finish off, weave ends.

Hemline Ribbing:

With Color B, Ch 14

Row 1: Hdc in the 3rd st from hook and in each across <12>

Row 2: Ch 2, t, BLO Hdc in each st across <12>

Rep Row 2 until your piece measures 17 (19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29)” or 68 (76, 84, 92, 100, 108, 116) rows

Finish off, leaving one long tail for sewing.

With a whip stitch, sew selvedge edge of ribbing to foundation stitches of Front Panel.

Repeat Hemline Ribbing and sew to Back Panel.

Sleeves:

*make 2

With Color B, Ch 36 (38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48)

Row 1: Hdc in the 3rd st from hook and in each across <34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46>

Row 2: Ch 2, t, *2 Hdc, Hdc; Rep from * across <51, 54, 57, 60, 63, 66, 69>

Row 3: Ch 2, t, Hdc in each st across <51, 54, 57, 60, 63, 66, 69>

Row 4: Ch 2, t, *2 Hdc, Hdc next 2; Rep from * across <68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 92>

Change to Color C

Row 5: Ch 2, t, Hdc in each st across <68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 92>

Rep Row 5 following stripe guide below until you’ve finished 56 (58, 58, 60, 60, 62, 62) rows

Stripe Guide:

*This guide begins with Row 1 of the sleeve that you’ve already made with Color B

4 Rows: Color B

3 Rows: Color C

4 Rows: Color A

2 Rows: Color B

5 Rows: Color C

4 Rows: Color B

8 Rows: Color A

3 Rows: Color B

4 Rows: Color C

2 Rows: Color A

2 Rows: Color C

6 Rows: Color B

4 Rows: Color C

2 Rows: Color A

5 Rows: Color B

4 (6, 6, 8, 8, 6, 6) Rows: Color A

Sizes 2XL-3XL only 2 Rows: Color C

Finish off, weave ends.

Sleeve Ribbing:

*make 2

With Color B, Ch 14

Row 1: Hdc in the 3rd st from hook and in each across <12>

Row 2: Ch 2, t, BLO Hdc in each st across <12>

Rep Row 2 until your piece measures 6 (6.5, 7, 7.25, 7.5, 8, 8.25)” or 25 (26, 28, 29, 30, 32, 33) rows

Finish off, leaving one long tail for sewing.

With a whip stitch, sew selvedge edge of ribbing to foundation stitches of Sleeve.

Make second sleeve and repeat sleeve ribbing.

Assembly:

We will sew our sweater together with Color B (or whatever color you have plenty of to do all your sewing. Your seams won’t show).

Lay your back panel out flat with the RS facing up.

Lay your front panel out flat on top of your back panel with the RS facing down.

You should now have RS facing together.

With a spare piece of yarn thread on a tapestry needle, whip stitch each front panel shoulder to the back panel, lining up the outside edges.

Open up your body panels to lie flat, RS facing down.

Lay each sleeve out flat perpendicular to the shoulder seams with the RS facing down.

Line up the center st of the last row of your sleeve with the shoulder seam.

Optional: Use locking stitch markers to keep your sleeve in place along the selvedge edge of the body.

Whip stitch the last row of your sleeve piece along the edge of the body.

Repeat sleeve sewing on other side.

Fold sweater such that the WS is facing out, front panel on top of back panel, sleeves folded lengthwise (hot dog style) and the side seams of the body are lined up.

Whip stitch along selvedge edge of sleeve and body in one continuous seam from the sleeve ribbing down to the hemline ribbing.

Reinforce the underarm area by adding extra whip stitches where appropriate.

Tip: To avoid lots of obvious stitches along contrast color stripes, sew your whip stitches around the turning chains and final Hdc stitches themselves – not through the middles of stitches. This will make it easier to keep a consistent looking seam that’s less noticeable.

Repeat sewing along other side.

Turn your sweater RS out

Neckline Ribbing:

With Color B, Ch 8

Row 1: Hdc in the 3rd st from hook and in each across <6>

Row 2: Ch 2, t, BLO Hdc in each st across <6>

Rep Row 2 until your piece measures 16 (18, 20, 22.5, 24.5, 26, 28)” or 64 (73, 80, 90, 97, 105, 112) rows

Finish off, leaving one long tail for sewing.

With a whip stitch, sew selvedge edge of ribbing to open edge of neckline evenly around.

Weave all ends and steam your sweater to block. Enjoy!

Abbreviations (US terms):
blo – back loop only
ch – chain
hdc – half double crochet
sk – skip
t – turn
st(s) – stitch(es)
rep – repeat
RS – right side
WS – wrong side

OTHER FREE SWEATER PATTERNS FOR FALL

1. Crochet Everyday Cotton Cadigan / 2. Knit Betty Cardigan / 3. Crochet Slouchy Stripe Cardigan

The post Crochet Monochrome Sweater appeared first on Sewrella.

Read through my inspiration, design process, and lots of info on the perfect yarn I chose, or scroll on down for the free pattern.

The Inspiration + Design

You might remember last year’s “My First Holiday Knit Sweater” and it’s corresponding knit-a-long! We had so much fun making a bulky weight colorwork sweater last year and I knew I had to bring back the concept for another round of holiday knitting fun!

This year’s design is a simple one color sweater worked from the top down in a seamless, one-piece style. It’s my favorite kind of sweater to make and is so comfy to wear! There are photo benchmarks throughout the tutorial to help you knit your sweater and make sure you’re on track.

I’ll be hosting the second annual Sewrella’s Holiday Knit-a-Long this year beginning October 1 and running through to December 1. Join the Sewrella’s Holiday Knit-a-Long Facebook Group to be a part of the event along with fellow knitters!

The Yarn + Kit

I chose to go loud and proud with my sweater color choice this year with a fun fuschia pink that is as happy as can be! I used Lion Brand Touch of Mohair yarn that has a bit of luxury fiber for a great price. If you grab the kit you have three color options (for those who aren’t as into bright color as me, ha!). Just be sure to order in time for our Knit-a-Long start date October 1!

Note: You can substitute yarn for this pattern. Use skeins from your stash or grab something fun – just make sure it’s a category 3 light weight yarn with similar yardage – 339 yds per 100g.

This sweater pattern is part of Lion Brand’s annual 12 Weeks of Christmas campaign and there are so many gorgeous projects in the collection. Browse the whole 12 weeks of Christmas collection HERE!

Grab the kit for this project (including a printed copy of the pattern!) by clicking HERE! – thanks for shopping through my link, it helps support this blog and it’s free content!

PATTERN

• Get the ad-free, large print, printable PDF pattern HERE.
• Grab the Ultimate Pattern Bundle that includes 150+ patterns just like this one on sale for $20 today HERE.
• PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later HERE.
• Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE.

DESCRIPTION
The 2019 Holiday Knit Sweater is a top down yoke style sweater with optional turtleneck, prominent ribbing, bell sleeves and a flattering fit in 10 size options!

MATERIALS
–Lion Brand Touch of Mohair Yarn
(Weight 3/Light, 3.5 oz/100 g, 339 yds/310 m)
3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5) skeins in Lilac Rose

Grab the kit with all the yarn you need + a printed copy of the pattern here!

-Size 5/3.75mm circular needles (this is my favorite interchangeable needle and cord set)
-Size 6/4mm circular needles
–Tapestry needle
–Measuring tape
–Scissors

Shop my favorite tools & materials HERE!

GAUGE
19 sts x 25 rows = 4″ in stockinette on larger needles

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

PATTERN NOTES
-For reference, model is 5’5” tall, and wearing the holiday sweater in the 40” bust size. Her true bust is 38” and she sized up for a looser fit.
-This pattern was graded to fit ten different bust sizes as listed in the “Finished Measurements” on p.1 – for a close fit, choose your true bust size. Alter the fit by choosing to size down (tighter fit) or size up (oversized fit).
-Pattern sizing is listed in parenthesis such as CO 108 (112, 120, 128, 134, 136, 142, 150, 154, 162) whereas CO 108 for size 36”, CO 112 for size 38” and so on. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle/highlight all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.
-All sizing is based on the CYC sizing regulations.
-This pullover sweater is worked top-down in a seamless style.

THE HOLIDAY SWEATER

YOKE

With 3.75mm needles, CO 108 (112, 120, 128, 134, 136, 142, 150, 154, 162)

K2 P2 rib until yoke measures 7 (7.25, 7.25, 7.5, 7.5, 7.5, 7.5, 7.5, 7.75, 7.75)”

Or 2 (2.25, 2.25, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 2.75, 2.75)” if omitting the turtleneck

*switch to larger needles

Next row: K

Inc Rnd 1: K2, M1L <162, 168, 180, 192, 201, 204, 213, 225, 231, 245>

Work stockinette until yoke measures 2 (2.5, 2.5, 2.75, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3.25, 3.5)” from ribbing

Inc Rnd 2: K3, M1L <216, 224, 240, 256, 268, 272, 284, 300, 308, 324>

Work stockinette until yoke measures 4 (4.5, 4.75, 5, 5.25, 5.25, 5.5, 5.5, 5.75, 6)” from ribbing

Inc Rnd 3: K4, M1L <270, 280, 300, 320, 335, 340, 355, 375, 385, 405>

Work stockinette until yoke measures 6 (6.5, 7, 7.25, 7.5, 7.5, 7.75, 8, 8.25, 8.5)”

Inc Rnd 4: (if number for your size is zero, omit this rnd) *K135 (70, 75, 80, 335, 0, 355, 375, 128, 135) M1L; rep from * 1 (3, 3, 3, 0, 0, 0, 0, 2, 2) times, K remaining 0 (0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 1, 0) <272, 284, 304, 324, 336, 340, 356, 376, 388, 408>

DIVIDE FOR BODY + SLEEVES

K across 80 (84, 90, 96, 100, 102, 106, 112, 116, 122) sts for back,

Place 56 (58, 62, 66, 68, 68, 72, 76, 78, 82) sts on waste yarn/ holder for right sleeve,

CO 10 (10, 10, 10, 10, 14, 14, 14, 14, 14) sts with the knitted method for underarm,

K across 80 (84, 90, 96, 100, 102, 106, 112, 116, 122) sts for front,

Place 56 (58, 62, 66, 68, 68, 72, 76, 78, 82) sts on waste yar/ holder for left sleeve,

CO 10 (10, 10, 10, 10, 14, 14, 14, 14, 14) sts with the knitted method for underarm,

Place marker at center of these CO sts to denote end of rnd.

Body st count <180, 188, 200, 212, 220, 232, 240, 252, 260, 272>

Work stockinette until body measures 6.5 (6.5, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9.75, 9, 9.25)” or desired length from divide for body & sleeves.

K2 P2 rib for 8”

Cast off all sts.

SLEEVES

*Work with magic loop technique or distribute yarn evenly among DPNs as you work.

Pick up and K 8 (8, 8, 8, 8, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12) CO sts at underarm (pm after first 5 sts), pick up one st at corner gap, slip first st from held sleeve sts, cast off corner picked up st, K held sts around sleeve, pick up one st at corner gap, cast off that corner picked up st, K to marker <66, 68, 72, 76, 78, 82, 86, 90, 92, 96>

Work stockinette until sleeve measures 12.25 (12.75, 13.25, 14, 14.5, 15.25, 15.75, 16, 16, 16.25)” from underarm

Dec Rnd: K2tog around <33, 34, 36, 38, 39, 41, 43, 45, 46, 48>

K2P2 rib for 4.5″.

Cast off in rib.

Abbreviations (US Terms):
CO – cast on
K – knit
M1L – make 1 left
P – purl
K2tog – knit two together decrease

OTHER FREE KNITTING PATTERNS

1. Knit Betty Cardigan / 2. Plaid Baby Blanket Knitting Pattern / 3. My First Knit Holiday Sweater

The post 2019 Holiday Sweater – knitting pattern appeared first on Sewrella.

Read through my inspiration, design process, and lots of info on the perfect yarn I chose, or scroll on down for the free pattern.

The Inspiration + Design

Lately I’ve been loving the warm weather here in Florida and am spending a lot of time by the pool/at the beach! I love the simple look of crochet lacy stitches but wanted to simplify a design including them.

The product of all these thoughts is a T-shaped design that’s just about as simple as a crochet garment can get.

2 panels, identical in size and shape, a little detailing at the shoulder for interest, and that’s it! This pattern is as simple to make as it is fun to wear.

The Yarn + Kit

I needed a yarn that is soft, summery, and classic. Lion Brand’s Comfy Cotton yarn released last summer with a collection of fun variegated colors but what flew under the radar was this Whipped Cream color of the same yarn. A cotton and polyester blend that’s light and cool while also being reallllllly soft made for the perfect yarn for this top.

While a variegated option would also make for a stunning Cabana Top, I loved keeping it simple so that the T-shape design and lacy open shoulder/sleeve can be the star of the show. However, if you’re feelin’ fancy – grab some Comfy Cotton in one of the other stunning colors like Lovie Dovie, Sugar Cane, or Blueberry Muffin.

Lion Brand has created a KIT with the yarn you need to make this sweater in either Silver Lining or Whipped Cream and it includes the full printed pattern too! Grab your kit here.

PATTERN

• Get the ad-free, large print, printable PDF pattern HERE.
• Grab the Ultimate Pattern Bundle that includes 150+ patterns just like this one on sale for $20 today HERE.
• PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later HERE.
• Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE.

DESCRIPTION

The Free Crochet Cabana Top Pattern is the easiest summer sweater I’ve ever designed! It is made from two identical T shaped pieces and seamed together – that’s it! We end up with a breezy, openwork top that’s perfect for the beach.

MATERIALS

–Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Yarn (Weight 3/Light, 7 oz/200 g, 392 yds/358 m)

2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4) skeins in Whipped Cream

Grab the kit from LionBrand.com HERE!

Or 340 (388, 435, 488, 536, 594, 646)grams

Or 667 (760, 853, 956, 1051, 1164, 1266) yds

–Size K 6.5mm crochet hook

–Tapestry needle

–Measuring tape

–Scissors

Shop all of my favorite tools & materials HERE!

SIZES

XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL

GAUGE (after blocking)

13 sts x 10 rows = 4″ in hdc

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

PATTERN NOTES

-For reference, model is 5’5” tall, and wearing the crochet cabana top in a size Medium.

-Sizing listed in the pattern will be in X-Small with Small, Medium, Large, Xl, 2X, and 3X listed in parenthesis such as 52 (58, 64, 70, 78, 84, 90) whereas 52 for size XS, 58 for size S, 64 for size M, 70 for size L, 78 for size XL, 84 for size 2X and 90 for size 3X. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle/highlight all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.

-This pullover sweater is worked in 2 identical T-shaped pieces and seamed to create an interesting and dynamic top with beginner techniques.

-All sizing is true to size and based on the CYC sizing regulations.

Crochet Cabana Top

PANELS

Make 2

*We will begin at the bottom of our T-shape, work the body, then use an easy chain method to make the top of the T-shape for the sleeves. Let’s get started!

Body

Ch 52 (58, 64, 70, 78, 84, 90), sk 2 sts

Row 1: Hdc across, t

<50, 56, 62, 68, 76, 82, 88>

Row 2: Ch 2, BLO Hdc across, t

Rpt Row 2 until you’ve finished Row 36.

Continue to next section without breaking yarn.

Shoulder & Sleeve

Continuing from Row 36

Ch 44 (46, 46, 48, 48, 50, 50), sk 2 sts

Row 1: Hdc across ch sts, hdc across body sts, ch 44 (46, 46, 48, 48, 50, 50), sk 2 sts <92, 100, 106, 114, 122, 130, 136 hdc only>

Row 2: Hdc across, t <134, 144, 150, 160, 168, 178, 184>

Rep Row 2 until you’ve finished Row 6 (8, 8, 10, 12, 12, 14)

Lace

Row 1: Ch 3, sk 1 hdc, hdc, *ch 1, sk 1, hdc; rep from * across <67, 72, 75, 80, 84, 89, 92 hdc only>

Rep Lace Row until you’ve finished Row 10 (10, 11, 10, 10, 11, 10)

or until your entire panel measures

21 (21.5, 22, 22.5, 23, 23.5, 24)” from hemline.

Finish off, weave all ends.

Seaming

Lie panels on top of one another with right sides together.

Side seams: With a piece of yarn thrice as long as your seam needs to be, sew your two panels along the selvedge edge of the body (all your BLO hdc sts) with a mattress stitch beginning at the foundation ch hemline, continuing past underarm and to end of sleeve (stitching sleeve foundation chs together).

Rep on the other side.

Shoulder seams: Using stitch markers, mark your neckline centered along the last rows of your panels. Neckline opening should be 6.75 (7.5, 8.5, 9.5, 10.25, 11.25, 12)” wide.

With a piece of yarn thrice as long as your seam needs to be, sew your two panels along the last rows of the Lace from edge to stitch marker with a mattress stitch on the right side.

Rep on the left side.

Abbreviations (US Terms):

ch – chain

hdc –half double crochet

Rep – repeat

sk – skip

st(s) – stitch(es)

t – turn

OTHER FREE CROCHET PATTERNS YOU MIGHT LOVE

1. Crochet Elle Convertible Shawl / 2. Crochet Rancher Poncho / 3. Crochet Audrey Tunic

The post Crochet Cabana Top appeared first on Sewrella.

Read through my inspiration, design process, and lots of info on the perfect yarn I chose, or scroll on down for the free pattern.

The Inspiration + Design

I love the squishy look of garter stitch! It’s the simplest knitting stitch to be worked flat in rows and I love the texture it gives.

I knew I wanted to make another garter stitch sweater after I made my Simple Knit Sweater in thicker fluffy yarn two winters ago. I loved the feel of that sweater but wanted a summery version.

I’d been eyeing the Lion Brand Cotton Jeans yarn (more on this below!) for a while but waited for the perfect project to finally get around to using it. I love the way this yarn worked up for this project – its feels soft and comfy for lounging around or wearing out for date night.

I’m pretty indecisive when it comes to my projects so I wanted to toy with making this design 2 ways – as a tank style top without sleeves and a full sweater with long slouchy sleeves. I love both versions so much I might be seaming and unseaming these sleeves a few times depending on my mood.

The Yarn + Kit

Lion Brand Cotton Jeans, how I love you. This yarn is the 100% cotton cousin of the ever popular Jeans line of yarn from LB. The OG Jeans is an acrylic yarn (and I’ve used it for garments in the past, including my popular Lil Denim Cardigan) however this new cotton jeans is even more stunning.

This yarn is one of the premier Lion Brand Collection yarns – that means the fibers are higher quality for a really decent price. The catch? They’re only available online – but who likes putting on actual clothes to go shopping anyway? (spoiler: not me!)

Grab the kit for this pattern (including a printed copy of the pattern!) by clicking HERE! – thanks for shopping through my link, it helps support this blog and it’s free content!

PATTERN

• Get the ad-free, large print, printable PDF pattern HERE.
• Grab the Ultimate Pattern Bundle that includes 150+ patterns just like this one on sale for $20 today HERE.
• PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later HERE.
• Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE.

DESCRIPTION

Knitting the softest sweater ever is a breeze with this sunbleached sweater pattern! Simple garter stitches and easy 1×1 ribbing are all it takes to whip up this drapey, summery garment.

MATERIALS

–Lion Brand Collection Cotton Jeans Yarn

(Weight 3/Light, 3.5 oz/100 g, 218 yds/200 m)

4 (4, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) balls in Sunbleached

Or grab the kit for this pattern from Lion Brand!

-Size 6/4mm circular knitting needles with 16” & 20”+ cord
-Size 7/4.5mm circular knitting needles with 20”+ cord

–Tapestry needle

–Measuring tape

–Scissors

Shop all of my favorite tools & materials HERE!

SIZES

XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL

GAUGE (after blocking)

18 sts x 20 rows = 4″ in garter stitch

FINISHED SWEATER MEASUREMENTS

PATTERN NOTES

-For reference, model is 5’5” tall, and wearing the Knit Sunbleached Sweater in a size Medium. Fit is oversized, for a more fitted sweater size down.

-The gauge, size, and fit of this finished sweater is largely impacted by blocking. I steam block (steam the panels before seaming with an iron on the steam setting or a clothing steamer) and again after the piece is finished. Be sure to block your swatch.

-Sizing listed in the pattern will be in X-Small with Small, Medium, Large, Xl, 2X, and 3X listed in parenthesis such as 72 (82, 90, 100, 108, 118, 126) whereas co 72 for size XS, 82 for size S, 90 for size M, 100 for size L, 108 for size XL, 118 for size 2X and 126 for size 3X. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle/highlight all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.

-This pullover sweater is worked in 4 pieces, the front and back panels, 2 sleeve panels then seamed together. Neckline ribbing is worked last by picking up stitches.

-This pattern may be used to make a tank style top (pictured) by omitting the sleeves and sleeve seaming. Complete panels, side seams, and neckline ribbing.

-All sizing is a bit oversized and based on the CYC sizing regulations.

SUNBLEACHED SWEATER

BACK PANEL

With 4mm needle

Co 72 (82, 90, 100, 108, 118, 126) sts

Ribbing

Rows 1 – 10: K1, P1, rep across

Body
Switch to 4.5mm needle

Rows 11 – 104 (110, 116, 118, 120, 122, 122): K across (garter st)

Cast off all sts

FRONT PANEL

With 4mm needle

Co 72 (82, 90, 100, 108, 118, 126) sts

Ribbing

Rows 1 – 10: K1, P1, rep across

Body

Switch to 4.5mm needle

Rows 11 – 92 (98, 104, 106, 108, 110, 110):

K across (garter st)

Continue to shoulder shaping without breaking yarn.

SHOULDER SHAPING

Side #1

Row 1: K 21 (24, 27, 30, 32, 35, 38) sts, bind off 30 (34, 36, 40, 44, 48, 50) sts for the neckline, K remaining 21 (24, 27, 30, 32, 35, 38) sts for the other shoulder

Row 2: K 19 (22, 25, 28, 30, 33, 36), K2tog, leave remaining sts on the needle unworked (finish one shoulder at a time)

Row 3: K across

Row 4: K until 2 sts remain, K2tog <19, 22, 25, 28, 30, 33, 36>

Rep Rows 3-4 three more times.

Cast off all sts on that shoulder side

Side #2

Join yarn to other RS shoulder side, K2tog first 2 sts remaining on the needle, K remaining 19 (22, 25, 28, 30, 33, 36) sts

Row 2: K across

Row 3: K2tog, K remaining sts <19, 22, 25, 28, 30, 33, 36>

Row 4: K across

Rep Rows 3-4 three

more times.

Cast off all sts.

SLEEVES

*make 2

With 4mm needle, Co 28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts

Ribbing

Rows 1 – 10: K1, P1, rep across

Body
Switch to 4.5mm needle

Row 11: KFB, K to last stitch, KFB <30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42>

Rows 12-13: K across

Rep Rows 11-13 until your stitch count reaches 54 (58, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80)

Continue knitting every row until your sleeve measures 16 (16.5, 16.5, 17, 17, 17.5, 17.5)”

Cast off all sts.

SEAMING

Lie back panel with WS up, lie front panel on top with RS up.

Shoulder seams: Sew front shoulder shaping with a mattress stitch to back panel. Rep on other side.

Side seams: Leave a 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5)” armhole from the shoulder seam, whip stitch from the bottom of the armhole to the end of the ribbing. Rep on other side.

Weave all ends.

Sleeve seams: With right sides together folded lengthwise (hot dog style), sew selvedge edge with a mattress stitch. Continue sewing last row of sleeve to armhole with WS (sleeve and body) facing out.

Turn sweater right side out.

NECKLINE RIBBING

With 4mm needle and 16” cord, pick up sts evenly around neckline – beginning with one shoulder seam

The final stitch count here isn’t as important as working evenly around – make sure to work into the cast off of each stitch as well as evenly along decreases and shoulder seams. Be sure you pick up an even number of stitches.

Ribbing

Rows 1 – 8: K1, P1, rep across

Cast off, weave all ends.

Abbreviations (US Terms):

co – cast on
k – knit
kfb – knit front back
p – purl
rep – repeat
rs – right side
st(s) – stitch(es)
ws – wrong side

OTHER FREE KNITTING PATTERNS

1. Knit Betty Cardigan / 2. Plaid Baby Blanket Knitting Pattern / 3. My First Knit Holiday Sweater

The post Knit Sunbleached Sweater appeared first on Sewrella.

Read through my inspiration, design process, and lots of info on the perfect yarn I chose, or scroll on down for the free pattern.

The Inspiration + Design

When I set out to design this pattern I knew I wanted a sweater that was simple and comfortable – something cozy for the chilly spring/summer nights ahead!

Although this sweater looks chunky and warm, it’s actually incredibly lightweight and breezy due to the thin yarn I used. Tiny yarns take a long time to work up but they create the most gorgeous effect in a finished piece and they’re necessary for summer projects!

I chose to do some random striping with pink and aqua yarns and didn’t quite know how to lay them out. So I found a “stripe generator” online to help! You enter the number of rows you’ll be working for your chosen size/fit and the colors you’re working with and you can create stripe patterns with the click of a button! So neat, it’s like magic! Check that out HERE.

The Yarn

This sweater design uses a new yarn from Lion Brand called Beautiful You – it’s a category 2 weight acrylic yarn that has a very tight twist to it for great stitch definition and beautiful drape! The acrylic is really soft against the skin and this line comes in some gorgeous color options – that’s part of the reason why I wanted to create a truly customizable design!

You can work with one solid color and follow this pattern, work with 2 colors evenly striped, 3 or more colors randomly striped – you could even create a pretty rainbow of stripes! It’s all up to you and your personal style.

Even though this project is super unique to you, Lion Brand has created a kit in the blue/pink color option you see pictured as well as a silver/black option for the neutral lovers. Grab the kit here that comes with a printed copy of the pattern.

If you’re customizing and choosing your own palette, pick up a la carte Beautiful You yarn you need here!

PATTERN

• Get the ad-free, large print, printable PDF pattern HERE.
• Grab the Ultimate Pattern Bundle that includes 150+ patterns just like this one on sale for $20 today HERE.
• PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later HERE.
• Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE.

To sum it up: The Magic Stripe Sweater is extra slouchy, comfortable, and relaxed with beautiful drape due to Beautiful You yarn. Elongated length covers the tush in a flattering way – making this the perfect elevated, handmade loungewear to layer with leggings. You can also alter the body to make the perfect hip-length sweater that’s equally comfy. Play with a random stripe generator (it’s like magic!) to create your own unique stripe pattern or follow my detailed guide within. This project is made to create your perfect stripe sweater that’s tailor made to fit your taste.

Materials:

–Lion Brand Beautiful You yarn (Weight: 2/Fine – 3.5oz, 326 yds)

Spanish Villa (Color A) – 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) skeins
Aquatica (Color B) – 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) skeins
Sugar Swizzle (Color C) – 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) skeins

Click here to grab the yarn kit from Lion Brand in 2 color options!

OR 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) skeins of any color to make a solid colored sweater

–Size C 2.75mm crochet hook

–Tapestry needle

–Measuring tape

Shop all of my favorite tools & materials HERE!

Sizes:

XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL

Gauge:

22 sts x 16 rows in BLO Hdc = 4″

Finished Sweater Measurements:

Bust: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58)”

Length: 25 (25.5, 26, 26.5, 27, 27.5, 28)”

Sleeve (to underarm): 16 (16.5, 16.5, 17, 17, 17.5, 17.5)”

Armhole: 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5)”

Abbreviations (US terms):

Blo – back loop only

ch – chain

hdc – half double crochet

sk – skip

t – turn

st(s) – stitch(es)

rep – repeat

RS – right side

WS – wrong side

Skill Level:

Level 2 – Easy

Pattern Notes

-Sweater is shown in size M, model is 5’5” tall and true bust measures 38” for reference.

-Sweater is intended to have lots of room and slouchy fit. If you are between sizes, size up for an even more oversized fit or size down for a slightly slimmer fit.

-Sizing listed in the pattern will be in XS, Small, Medium, Large, XL, 2XL, and 3XL listed in parenthesis such as 95 (106, 117, 128, 139, 150, 161)) whereas 95 for size XS, 106 for size S, 117 for size M, 128 for size L, 139 for size XL, 150 for size 2XL and 161 for size 3XL. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, print the pattern and circle/highlight all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.

-Pattern is worked in flat panels from the bottom up – 2 front and back panels & 2 identical sleeve panels that are all seamed together at the end before working the collar neckline. Hemline ribbing and sleeve ribbing is sewn on pre-assembly.

-Body colorwork requires changing color every few rows. I suggest carrying your yarn up the side of your work loosely to maintain good tension and reduce the number of ends you must weave later. When changing color, always join new color before Ch 2 and turn of following Row.

-I used www.RandomStripes.com to map out the random stripe pattern of my sweater. You can follow my stripe instructions below to make a sweater that looks just like mine or play with your own stripe design.

-You may not need all 3 skeins of each color included in your kit for this pattern. However I’ve set up the kit to have equal amounts of yarn in each color so that you may decide on your own stripe pattern and have plenty of yarn. Use your extras for other projects or start on another sweater!

-In this pattern, Color A is Spanish Villa, Color B is Aquatica, Color C is Sugar Swizzle.

-Anytime the pattern indicates you work a row of BLO Hdc I recommend making the last stitch of that row a regular Hdc through both loops. This will keep your edges more solid and easier to sew later.

-All pattern instructions will be listed for different sizes in ( ). All final stitch counts will be listed in < >.

Crochet Magic Stripe Sweater

Front Panel

Body:

With Color A, Ch 95 (106, 117, 128, 139, 150, 161)

Row 1: Hdc in the 3rd st from hook and in each across <93, 104, 115, 126, 137, 148, 159>

Row 2: Ch 2, t, BLO Hdc in each st across <93, 104, 115, 126, 137, 148, 159>

Rep Row 2 following stripe guide below until you’ve finished 82 rows

Stripe Guide:

*This guide begins with Row 1 of the body that you’ve already made with Color A

8 Rows: Color A

8 Rows: Color C

8 Rows: Color B

6 Rows: Color A

2 Rows: Color C

2 Rows: Color B

2 Rows: Color A

6 Rows: Color C

6 Rows: Color B

4 Rows: Color A

2 Rows: Color C

2 Rows: Color B

4 Rows: Color A

8 Rows: Color C

4 Rows: Color B

8 Rows: Color A

2 (4, 6, 8, 10, 10, 10) Rows: Color C

Sizes 2XL-3XL only: (2, 4) Rows: Color A

Shoulder Shaping:

Change to Color B

Row 1: Ch 2, t, BLO Hdc next 30 sts (30)

Row 2: t, Sk 1 st, BLO Hdc next 29 sts to end (29)

Row 3: Ch 2, t, BLO Hdc next 28 sts (28)

Row 4: t, Sk 1 st, BLO Hdc next 27 sts (27)

Change to Color A

Row 5: Ch 2, t, BLO Hdc next 26 sts (26)

Row 6: t, Sk 1 st, BLO Hdc next 25 sts (25)

Finish off, weave ends.

Continuing from where you worked your 30^th st from Row 1 of Shoulder Shaping, sk 55 sts

Join Color B yarn to next st, pull up loosely on loop (do not chain)

Row 1: BLO Hdc in same st as join and in each across to end (30)

Row 2: Ch 2, t, BLO Hdc next 29 sts (29)

Row 3: t, Sk 1 st, BLO Hdc next 28 sts (28)

Row 4: Ch 2, t, BLO Hdc next 27 sts (27)

Change to Color A

Row 5: t, Sk 1 st, BLO Hdc next 26 sts (26)

Row 6: Ch 2, t, BLO Hdc next 25 sts (25)

Finish off, weave ends.

Back Panel:

Rep front panel pattern to end of 90 Rows and stripe guide.

Continue:

4 Rows: Color B

2 Rows: Color A

Finish off, weave ends.

Hemline Ribbing:

With Color A, Ch 14

Row 1: Hdc in the 3rd st from hook and in each across <12>

Row 2: Ch 2, t, BLO Hdc in each st across <12>

Rep Row 2 until your piece measures 17 (19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29)” or 68 (76, 84, 92, 100, 108, 116) rows

Finish off, leaving one long tail for sewing.

With a whip stitch, sew selvedge edge of ribbing to foundation stitches of Front Panel.

Repeat Hemline Ribbing and sew to Back Panel.

Sleeves:

*make 2

With Color A, Ch 36 (38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48)

Row 1: Hdc in the 3rd st from hook and in each across <34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46>

Row 2: Ch 2, t, *2 BLO Hdc, BLO Hdc; Rep from * across <51, 54, 57, 60, 63, 66, 69>

Row 3: Ch 2, t, BLO Hdc in each st across <51, 54, 57, 60, 63, 66, 69>

Row 4: Ch 2, t, *2 BLO Hdc, BLO Hdc next 2; Rep from * across <68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 92>

Change to Color C

Row 5: Ch 2, t, BLO Hdc in each st across <68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 92>

Rep Row 5 following stripe guide below until you’ve finished 61 (63, 63, 65, 65, 67, 67) total rows

Stripe Guide:

*This guide begins with Row 1 of the sleeve that you’ve already made with Color A

4 Rows: Color A

1 Row: Color C

4 Rows: Color A

4 Rows: Color C

4 Rows: Color B

6 Rows: Color C

4 Rows: Color A

10 Rows: Color C

10 Rows: Color B

4 Rows: Color A

4 Rows: Color B

2 Rows: Color C

4 (6, 6, 8, 8, 6, 6) Rows: Color B

Sizes 2XL-3XL only 2 Rows: Color A

Finish off, weave ends.

Sleeve Ribbing:

*make 2

With Color A, Ch 14

Row 1: Hdc in the 3rd st from hook and in each across <12>

Row 2: Ch 2, t, BLO Hdc in each st across <12>

Rep Row 2 until your piece measures 6 (6.5, 7, 7.25, 7.5, 8, 8.25)” or 25 (26, 28, 29, 30, 32, 33) rows

Finish off, leaving one long tail for sewing.

With a whip stitch, sew selvedge edge of ribbing to foundation stitches of Sleeve.

Make second sleeve and repeat sleeve ribbing.

Assembly:

We will sew our sweater together with Color B (or whatever color you have plenty of to do all your sewing. Your seams won’t show).

Lay your back panel out flat with the RS facing up.

Lay your front panel out flat on top of your back panel with the RS facing down.

You should now have RS facing together.

With a spare piece of yarn thread on a tapestry needle, whip stich each front panel shoulder to the back panel, lining up the outside edges.

Open up your body panels to lie flat, RS facing down.

Lay each sleeve out flat perpendicular to the shoulder seams with the RS facing down.

Line up the center st of the last row of your sleeve with the shoulder seam.

Optional: Use locking stitch markers to keep your sleeve in place along the selvedge edge of the body.

Whip stitch the last row of your sleeve piece along the edge of the body.

Repeat sleeve sewing on other side.

Fold sweater such that the WS is facing out, front panel on top of back panel, sleeves folded lengthwise (hot dog style) and the side seams of the body are lined up.

Whip stitch along selvedge edge of sleeve and body in one continuous seam from the sleeve ribbing down to the hemline ribbing.

Reinforce the underarm area by adding extra whip stitches where appropriate.

Tip: To avoid lots of obvious stitches along contrast color stripes, sew your whip stitches around the turning chains and final Hdc stitches themselves – not through the middles of stitches. This will make it easier to keep a consistent looking seam that’s less noticeable.

Repeat sewing along other side.

Turn your sweater RS out

Neckline Ribbing:

With Color A, Ch 8

Row 1: Hdc in the 3rd st from hook and in each across <6>

Row 2: Ch 2, t, BLO Hdc in each st across <6>

Rep Row 2 until your piece measures 16 (18, 20, 22,.5, 24.5, 26, 28)” or 64 (73, 80, 90, 97, 105, 112) rows

Finish off, leaving one long tail for sewing.

With a whip stitch, sew selvedge edge of ribbing to open edge of neckline evenly around.

Weave all ends and steam your sweater to block. Enjoy!

OTHER SPRING ESSENTIAL FREE CROCHET PATTERNS

1. Crochet Elle Convertible Shawl / 2. Crochet Rancher Poncho / 3. Crochet Audrey Tunic

The post Crochet Magic Stripe Sweater appeared first on Sewrella.

Read through my inspiration, design process, and lots of info on the perfect yarn I chose, or scroll on down for the free pattern.

The Inspiration + Design

The inspiration explanation for this sweater is really simple – I saw a large scale gingham pullover sweater from Anthropologie (that’s sadly no longer in stock) and I knew I had to figure out a way to make my own! Simple stockinette and some colorwork proved just the ticket and I could not be happier with how this came together.

This sweater is made entirely of colorwork that gives it a textured look by catching floats behind the work as well as a double knit texture. This sweater is thick and warm, and oh so comfy.

Note: You could also knit this project in intarsia. Since I haven’t taught that technique here on the blog I stuck with stranded colorwork – but go where the wind takes you!

The Yarn

I used Lion Brand’s old classic Wool Ease Yarn for this pattern and I’m so glad I did! I chose it mostly because of the color choice. I knew I needed three shades of the same color and I needed a yarn that was lightweight and great to wear. Wool Ease is one of the most comfortable yarns to knit with and wear and the perfect three shades of blush really sealed the deal!

There are several ways to achieve a gingham look but I love this simple way of working with colors that already relate to each other so well. You could make a different gingham color scheme with a white, black and grey or a white mixed with medium and dark yarns of the same hue.

Pick up all the Wool Ease yarn you need here!

PATTERN

• Get the ad-free, large print, printable PDF pattern HERE.
• Grab the Ultimate Pattern Bundle that includes 150+ patterns just like this one on sale for $20 today HERE.
• PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later HERE.
• Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE.

To sum it up: Feminine and fun, the gingham pullover is knit with large blocked colorwork and the perfect blush color scheme. Vintage meets modern in this cozy sweater with simple knitting techniques in a creative application.

Materials:

–Lion Brand Wool Ease yarn (Weight: 4/Medium Worsted – 3oz, 197 yds)

Color 1: Blush Heather (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3 skeins)

Color 2: Rose Heather (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4 skeins)

Color 3: Dark Rose Heather (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3 skeins)

Size US 7 / 4.5mm circular knitting needles – 36” cord

-Stitch Markers

-Tapestry needle

Gauge:

18 sts x 24 rows in stockinette = 4”

Sizes:

XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL

Finished Sweater Measurements:

Bust: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56)”

Length: 20 (20, 20, 21, 21, 22, 22)”

Sleeve (to underarm): 15.5 (16.5, 16.5, 16.5, 17.5, 17.5, 17.5)”

Armhole: 6 (6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5)”

Abbreviations (US terms):

CO – cast on

K – knit

P – purl

KFB – knit front back (increase)

St(s) – stitch(es)

Rpt – repeat

RS – right side

WS – wrong side

Skill Level:

Level 3 – Intermediate

Pattern Notes

-Sweater is shown in size M, model is 5’5” tall and true bust measures 38” for reference.

-Sweater is designed to have 2” positive ease. Size up if you’re between sizes.

-Sizing listed in the pattern will be in XS, Small, Medium, Large, XL, 2XL, and 3XL listed in parenthesis such as 72 (78, 90, 102, 108, 120, 126) whereas 72 for size XS, 78 for size S, 90 for size M, 102 for size L, 108 for size XL, 120 for size 2XL and 126 for size 3XL. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, print the pattern and circle/highlight all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.

-Pattern is worked in flat panels from the bottom up – 2 front and back panels and 2 identical sleeve panels that are all seamed together at the end. Neckline ribbing is worked last by picking up stitches.

-Body colorwork requires changing color every 24 (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42) sts. I suggest loosely catching your floats every 3 stitches to maintain good tension. This will make your sweater double knit or twice as thick as one without colorwork. You may choose to knit in the intarsia style instead of stranding your colorwork.

-To achieve a gingham look, you’ll need three shades of the same color. You may substitute three of the same for a white/cream, a medium shade, and a dark shade of that color.

-In this pattern, Color 1 is blush heather, Color 2 is Rose Heather, Color 3 is Dark Rose Heather.

-This pattern is suitable for adventurous beginners – if you’re unsure about it, start with the sleeve. This holds all the most complicated elements of the pattern right at the beginning, if you can make the sleeve you can make the sweater!

Knit Gingham Pullover

Back Body Panel

With Color 3 CO 72 (78, 90, 102, 108, 120, 126) sts

Ribbing: Work in K 1, P 1 rib until your piece measures 2” (or 12 rows)

Body: Work stockinette stitch (K all RS rows, P all WR rows) beginning Body Colorwork

Body Colorwork

Rows 1-32: Work first 24 (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42) sts in Color 2, next 24 (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42) sts in Color 3, last 24 (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42) sts in Color 2

Rows 33-64: Work first 24 (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42) sts in Color 1, next 24 (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42) sts in Color 2, last 24 (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42) sts in Color 1

Rows 65-96: Work first 24 (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42) sts in Color 2, next 24 (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42) sts in Color 3, last 24 (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42) sts in Color 2

Rows 97-108: Work first 24 (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42) sts in Color 1, next 24 (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42) sts in Color 2, last 24 (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42) sts in Color 1

Cast off, weave ends.

Front Body Panel

Repeat Back Body Panel through Row 96.

Row 97: Work first 24 (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42) sts in Color 2, cast off 24 (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42) sts in Color 3 (taking care to carry other color along with cast off to maintain the texture of your sweater), work last 24 (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42) sts in Color 2

Right Shoulder

*Note: When working the shoulders you want to still carry a second color behind (even though you won’t be using it) to maintain consistent gauge/texture/drape

Rows 98-109: Beginning with a WS row, working just on the right side of the front panel, Work 24 (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42) sts in Color 1

Cast off, weave ends.

Left Shoulder

Rows 98-109: Join yarn to the first left shoulder stitch after Cast off 24 (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42) on the RS, working just on the left side of the front panel, Work 24 (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42) sts in Color 1

Cast off, weave ends.

Sleeves

*make 2

With Color 3 CO 28 (30, 32, 33, 34, 36, 37)

Ribbing: Work in K 1, P 1 rib until your piece measures 2.5” (or 18 rows)

Increase Rows:

Sizes XS, M, XL, 3XL: K first st, KFB each remaining st across <57, 63, 69, 75>

Sizes S, L, 2XL: KFB each st across <60, 66, 72>

Work K1 P1 rib back across the sleeve so that you will begin color work on a knit/right side row.

Sleeve: Work stockinette stitch (K all RS rows, P all WR rows) beginning Sleeve Colorwork

Sleeve Colorwork

Rows 1-22: Work first 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25) sts in Color 2, next 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25) sts in Color 3, last 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25) sts in Color 2

Rows 23-44: Work first 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25) sts in Color 1, next 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25) sts in Color 2, last 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25) sts in Color 1

Rows 45-66: Work first 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25) sts in Color 2, next 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25) sts in Color 3, last 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25) sts in Color 2

Rows 67-88: Work first 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25) sts in Color 1, next 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25) sts in Color 2, last 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25) sts in Color 1

Cast off, weave ends.

Assembly

With a long piece of spare Color 1 yarn thread on a tapestry needle, seam shoulders (Color 1 cost off edge of front and back panels on each side).

Weave ends.

With RS facing you, lie sleeve flat and match center of last sleeve row to the shoulder seam of your front and back panels.

With a long piece of Color 2 yarn, seam sleeve to shoulder all the way across the sleeve cast off row.

Repeat on other sleeve.

Fold back and front panels together with WS together (RS facing out).

With a long piece of Color 2 yarn, seam sleeve and body side seam all at once starting with the sleeve ribbing and continuing past the underarm down the side of the body.

Repeat on the other side. Weave ends.

Neckline Ribbing

With Color 3 pick up: 24 (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42) sts across the back panel center cast off edge, 24 sts along left shoulder edge, 24 (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42) sts across front panel center cast off edge, and another 24 sts along right shoulder edge <96, 100, 108, 116, 120, 128, 132>

Decrease Row: K 4 K2tog; Rpt around, Sizes L and 3XL only K2tog once more, K remaining 0 (4, 0, 0, 4, 2, 0) sts <80, 84, 90, 96, 100, 107, 111>

Ribbing: Work in K 1, P 1 rib until your neckline ribbing measures 1.5” (or 9 rows)

Cast off, weave all ends.

OTHER SPRING ESSENTIAL FREE CROCHET PATTERNS

1. Crochet Elle Convertible Shawl / 2. Crochet Rancher Poncho / 3. Crochet Audrey Tunic

The post Knit Gingham Sweater appeared first on Sewrella.

Remember the original Simple Knit Sweater? This is the Sewrella Yarn edition! And I know what you’re thinking… “Ashleigh, why are we posting pumpkin things in February?” Well let me tell ya – you guys went crazy for this colorway when we brought it out last fall and I had aspirations to make something with it, but autumn came and went in the blink of an eye and here we are towards the end of winter… I’m tryin’ my best y’all. This busy toddler mama only has so much steam. Better late than never though, right?!

Also worth noting: I could ride the pumpkin spice train all year long if it were up to me. Truth be told, I could probably be the conductor. Actually, I just stocked up on some pumpkin coffee creamer my local Target had left over on clearance, so the craze clearly isn’t over!

Anywho, I’ve got the kit HERE for those of you who want to skip the reading and get to the good stuff (I don’t blame you). I have 5 really gorgeous brand new jewel toned colorways, a nice, lightly speckled neutral, and, of course, the pumpkin spice pictured here. Don’t miss it while it’s 20% off this week only!

The Yarn

Alright, let’s get down to the goods, shall we? We’ve been working on a new dye method that I am really falling in love with, and I think you will too.

It’s called a Speckle-Solid and it’s a tonal variation on normal solid dyed yarn! We dye the yarn all over with one made-in-house color blend and then give it another pass through the dye pans with a speckle of the same color to give even more depth. Neat, right?!

The simple knit sweater that was knit up in our yarn uses our Pumpkin Spice colorway (I know, I know I dropped the ball on getting this baby up on the blog in October when we are all about the pumpkin but just go with me here folks). This is a more variegated yarn of ours and we dye a lot of yarn this way!

Pumpkin Spice is one color option for this yarn kit and the others (pictured below left to right) are Berry Muffin, Brûlée, Vanilla Bean, Saltwater Taffy, Blue Velvet, and Wild Strawberry. They’re sweet speckle solids!

PATTERN

• Get the ad-free, large print, printable PDF pattern HERE.
• Grab the Ultimate Pattern Bundle that includes 150+ patterns just like this one on sale for $20 today HERE.
• PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later HERE.
• Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE.

To sum it up: This simple knit sweater is relaxed and comfortable with the perfect slouchy fit. It’s simple to knit in bottom up seamed construction and is super doable for beginners! Made with artisan hand dyed yarn, this sweater is as stunning as you are.

Materials:

–Handmade Home Fibers yarn or any bulky weight yarn (XS-S: 5 skeins, M-L: 6 skeins, XL: 7 skeins, 2XL-3XL: 8 skeins)

Shop the kit here!

–Stitch markers

Shop all my favorite tools & materials here!

Gauge:

8 sts x 16 rows = 4″ in garter stitch

Sizes:

XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL

Measurements:

Bust: 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54)”
Width across back: 17 (18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23)”
Length: 21 (22, 23, 23.5, 24, 24.5, 24.5)”
Armhole: 6 (6.5, 7, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5)”
Sleeve Length: 16.5 (17, 17, 17.5, 18, 18)”

Abbreviations (US terms):

co – cast on

k – knit

k2tog – knit 2 stitches together

p – purl

rep – repeat

rs – right side

st(s) – stitch(es)

ws – wrong side

Skill Level:

Level 1 – beginner

Pattern Notes

-For reference, model is 5’5” tall, and wearing the Simple Knit Sweater in a size Medium. Fit is oversized, for a more fitted sweater size down.

-Sizing listed in the pattern will be in X-Small with Small, Medium, Large, Xl, 2X, and 3X listed in parenthesis such as 36 “(41, 46, 51, 56, 61, 66)” whereas co 36 for size XS, 41 for size S, 46 for size M, 51 for size L, 56 for size XL, 61 for size 2X and 66 for size 3X. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle/highlight all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.

-This pullover sweater is worked in 5 pieces, the front and back panels, 2 sleeve panels then seamed together. The neckline ribbing is stitched on last by picking up stitches.

-All sizing is a bit oversized and based on the CYC sizing regulations.

Pumpkin Spice Knit Sweater

Back Panel

Co 30 (38, 46, 54, 62, 70, 78) sts

Ribbing

Rows 1 – 6: K1, P1, rep across

Body

Rows 7 – 58 (62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82): K all sts (garter st)

Bind off all sts

Front Panel

Co 30 (38, 46, 54, 62, 70, 78) sts

Ribbing

Rows 1 – 6: K1, P1, rep across

Body

Rows 7 – 52 (56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76): K all sts (gater st)

Shoulder shaping

Row 1: K 9 (12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27) sts, bind off 12 (14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24) sts for the neckline, K remaining 9 (12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27) sts for the other shoulder

Row 2: K all sts on one shoulder side (first 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27 sts), leave remaining sts on the needle unworked (finish one shoulder at a time)

Row 3: K2tog, K all remaining sts on that shoulder side

Row 4: K all sts

Row 5: Repeat Row 3

Bind off all sts on that shoulder side

Join yarn to other shoulder side (close to neckline) and K all sts

Row 2: K all sts

Row 3: K2tog, K remaining sts

Row 4: K all sts

Row 5: Repeat Row 3

Bind off all sts

Weave ends.

Sleeves

*make 2

Co 26 (28, 30, 32, 36, 38, 40) sts

Rows 1 – 32: K all sts (garter st)

Row 33: K 3, K2tog, rep across

Rows 34 – 54 (56, 56, 58, 58, 60, 60): K all sts

Ribbing

Rows 1-6: K1, P1, rep across

Bind off all sts

Seaming

Shoulder seams: Sew front shoulder shaping with a mattress stitch to back panel with WS facing you.

Sleeve: Open your sweater with seamed shoulders to lie flat with RS facing up. Lie sleeves flat with RS facing up. Count to center of sleeve Co sts, match up with shoulder seam and place a stitch marker to hold centered in place. Sew sleeve’s Co edge to sweater bodice with a whip stitch. Repeat on other side.

Side seams: Fold sweater to match the side seams and sleeve underarm seam. Sew with an invisible vertical seam beginning with sleeve ribbing, along underarm, and continuing along the front and back panel body and finish with bodice ribbing. Repeat on other side

Weave all ends.

Neckline

Pick up stitches all along the neckline of the sweater (working into the shoulder seams themselves and all cast off stitches).

# of neckline stitches will vary depending on your size, just make sure you’ve picked up an even number of stitches.

Rows 1-2: K 1, P 1, rep around

Bind off all sts

Weave all ends.

Pop on your new finished sweater and enjoy!

Looking for more KNIT PATTERNS? Check these out!

1. Knit Betty Cardigan / 2. Plaid Knit Baby Blanket (in 3 sizes!) / 3. Holiday Knit Sweater

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