Crochet Joni Topper

Summertime crocheting means we need our wearables to be light, airy, and layerable – that’s why this Joni Topper is perfect!

Joni is perfectly lightweight, with a slim cut, a cropped length, boho tassel fringe, and cool cotton blend yarn (that’s just as pretty as it is comfy!)

Also – can we talk for a moment about that RACER BACK?! I always try to incorporate one statement element to my garment design. This time, it’s a dramatic racerback that is easy to wear.

I’ll be layering Joni over my tanks and tees all summer long, she adds just the right amount of polish to a look that also says “I threw this on, and I look amazing” – right?

SUMMER PATTERNS I LOVE (& you should too)

1. Crochet Ava Poncho / 2. Crochet Weekender Tunic / 3. Crochet June Sun Hat

Okay, now that you’re convinced you need your very own Joni – let’s talk yarn.

I chose to use Lion Brand Yarn’s brand new Comfy Cotton – and let me tell you guys something: the name doesn’t lie. You know how a lot of cotton yarns are stiff, scratchy, and a pain to crochet with? I’ve found that they don’t glide over my hook, I have to fight with them and that throws off my tension. Le sigh.

Comfy Cotton is totally different! It’s 50% cotton 50% polyester and is so soft and smooth, both to work with and to wear! It’s called a category 3 light weight yarn but I would gauge it as more of a true worsted weight. It’s got just the right thickness that is fast to work up but drapes beautifully in garment form!

Grab some Comfy Cotton from the Lion Brand website to try this new summer favorite by CLICKING HERE.

OR grab the kit they put together with this pattern HERE. It’ll get you all the yarn you need plus a printed copy of the pattern delivered right to your door!

PATTERN

• Get the ad-free, large print, printable PDF pattern HERE.
• Grab the Ultimate Pattern Bundle that includes this pattern and 100+ others for under $30 HERE.
• PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later HERE.
• Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE.

To sum it up:

To sum it up: Joni is the free spirited, comfy topper that you can throw on over any outfit to pull together all your summer looks. Delicate open stitches allow for cool comfort and great drape. This pattern features a dramatic racer back neckline that is easy to achieve with my unique all-in-one construction – no fussy shaping here! Grab some Comfy Cotton yarn to make this statement summer piece with ease.

Materials:

–Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Yarn (Weight: 3/DK, Light – 7oz, 392 yds)

Color: Chai Latte – 2 skeins (approx. 15, 235, 280, 300, 340, 365, 380 g)

Grab your pattern kit with everything you need to make your own Joni Topper here!

-Size K 6.5 mm hook

-Tapestry needle

-Measuring tape or ruler

(Click HERE to shop all my favorite tools!)

Sizes:

XS, S, M, L, Xl, XXL, XXXL

Abbreviations (US terms):

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

fpdc – front post double crochet

bpdc – back post double crochet

sk – skip

st(s) – stitch(es)

t – turn

Skill Level: Level 2 Easy

Notes:

-This topper fits true to size. For reference, model is 5’5” tall with a 36” bust and wearing a size Small.

-Sizing listed in the pattern will be in X-Small with Small, Medium, Large, Xl, 2X, 3X, and 4X listed in parenthesis such as 36 “(41, 46, 51, 56, 61, 66)” whereas Ch 36 for size XS, 41 for size S, 46 for size M, 51 for size L, 56 for size XL, 61 for size 2X and 66 for size 3X. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle/highlight all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.

-Pattern is worked by first making the large wraparound panel, working the front straps and back center panel separately off of the wraparound panel. One round of edging and tassels are added to finish.

Gauge:

13 sts x 8 rows in Dc = 4”

Dimensions:

Length: 11 (11, 12, 12, 13, 13, 13)

Width across body once assembled: 14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26)

Joni Topper

Wraparound piece:

Row 1: Ch 104 (113, 123, 133, 143, 153, 163), Dc in 4^th ch from hook, Dc in each ch st to end (100, 110, 120, 130, 140, 150, 160 Dc)

Row 2: Ch 3, t, sk 1 Dc, Dc in next Dc, *Ch 1, sk 1, Dc in next Dc; rep from * to end (55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80 Dc)

Row 3: Ch 2, t, *Dc in first Dc, Dc in Ch 1 space; rep from * to end (100, 110, 120, 130, 140, 150, 160 Dc)

Rows 4-21 (21, 23, 23, 25, 25, 25): Repeat Rows 2-3

(Continue to upper panels without breaking yarn)

Wraparound Piece Chart	Stitches per odd Row	Rows to complete
Xs	100	21
S	110	21
M	120	23
L	130	23
XL	140	25
XXL	150	25
XXXL	160	25

Upper Panels

Divide the last row of your wraparound piece into five sections using stitch markers.

Place stitch markers on the following stitches:

XS – 20^th, 40^th, 60th, 80^th

S – 22nd, 44^th, 66^th, 88^th

M – 24^th, 48^th, 72^nd, 96^th

L – 26^th, 52^nd, 78^th, 104^th

XL – 28^th, 56^th, 84^th, 112^th

XXL – 30^th, 60^th, 90^th, 120th

XXXL – 32^nd, 64^th, 96^th, 128^th

Upper Panel Setup Row:

*Replace st markers as you go

Ch 3, t, sk 1 Dc, Dc in next Dc, *Ch 1, sk 1, Dc in next Dc; rep from * to first st marker

Hdc in 1^st marked st

Sc in each Dc to 2^nd st marker (armhole 1)

Hdc in 2^nd marked st

*Ch 1, sk 1, Dc; rep from * to 3^rd st marker

Hdc in 3^rd marked st

Sc in each Dc to 2^nd st marker (armhole 2)

Hdc in 2^nd marked st

Dc, *Ch 1, sk 1, Dc; rep from * to end

*Armholes are now finished off

*Work each panel moving forward to it’s end before beginning the next panel.

Front Shoulder Panels:

*Continuing on without breaking yarn

Row 1: Ch 2, t, *Dc in first Dc, Dc in Ch 1 space; rep from * to st marker (19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31 Dc)

Row 2: Ch 2, t, Dc in first Dc, *Ch 1, sk 1, Dc in next Dc; rep from * to end (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 Dc)

Rows 3-9: Repeat Rows 1-2

Row 10: Ch 2, t, Dc in first Dc, *sk 1 (DO NOT Ch), Dc in next Dc; rep from * to end (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 Dc)

Row 11: Ch 2, t, Dc in each Dc to end (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 Dc)

Row 12: Ch 2, t, Dc in first Dc, *Ch 1, sk 1, Dc in next Dc; rep from * to end – [sizes XS, M, XL, XXXL leave the last stitch unworked] (9, 11, 11, 13, 13, 15, 15 Dc)

Row 13: Ch 2, t, *Dc in first Dc, Dc in Ch 1 space; rep from * to st marker (9, 11, 11, 13, 13, 15, 15 Dc)

Row 14: Ch 2, t, Dc in first Dc, *Ch 1, sk 1, Dc in next Dc; rep from * to end (9, 11, 11, 13, 13, 15, 15 Dc)

Rows 15-23: Repeat Rows 13-14, ending with Row 13

Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Identify last stitch marker (the farthest one from the first shoulder panel you worked). You should be working on the other section that connects to end/other rough edge of the wraparound piece.

Join yarn to the next stitch after the last stitch marker. We will work from this stitch to the end of the row, then back and forth in turned rows to complete this panel the same way we made our first front shoulder panel.

Follow same pattern directions for second shoulder panel. Stitch counts remain the same.

Center Back Panel:

Identify the group of stitches at the center of your wraparound piece, between the 2^nd and 3^rd stitch markers. Join yarn to the last Dc you worked next to your marked Hdc stitch.

Row 1: Ch 2, t, *Dc in first Dc, Dc in Ch 1 space; rep from * to st marker (20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32 Dc)

Row 2: Ch 3 t, sk 1 Dc, Dc in next Dc, *Ch 1, sk 1, Dc in next Dc; rep from * to end (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 Dc)

Rows 3-11: Repeat Rows 1-2

Finish off, weave ends.

Seam Shoulders:

With long tails left from your front shoulder panels, sew each panel to the top of the center back panel with a whip stitch.

Be sure not to twist any panels, simply fold in the two outside edges of the vest to meet each other and attach the front shoulder panels creating a racer back neckline.

Weave all ends.

Edging:

Join yarn to the last row of your first front panel. If you are looking at the vest, not wearing it, this will be the inside corner on the left panel (or right panel if you’re left handed).

Ch 1, Sc in each st evenly around the entire neckline – up the rough edge of the first front panel, to the V neckline at the center back panel, and down the rough edge of the second front panel.

Work 2 Sc into the corner and continue on to the hemline.

Sl st to join, finish off, weave ends.

Tassel Fringe:

Cut 8 pieces of yarn each 8” long.

Hold yarn together and loop it through the first LAST Sc of your edging.

Before pulling the entire loop through, grab your tails and pull them through the loop.

Tighten to secure.

Trim ends to make even and make another tassel.

Attach tassel fringe in increments of 5 stitches (skip 4 sts between fringe) around entire hemline. Trim all to make them even.

 

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