Crochet Heirloom Cabled Sweater

This pattern is so near to my heart, the Heirloom Cabled Sweater!

You may remember the heirloom cabled throw blanket I made for the Christmas season (see it here) with all that chunky beautiful cabling. Well, I knew I needed to use that cabling pattern another way at some point.

It’s been a bucket list crochet design for me for a long time… to make my very own cabled sweater! (Have I become a full fledged grandma yet? Have I earned my gray hair badge? Probably.) I’ve always admired those intricate cables on all different types of things, blankets, pillows, hats – but I wanted to wear mine.

So I thought to myself… I wonder if I can take the exact same cabling pattern from the blanket and use a lighter weight yarn, smaller hook, and it will be about the right size for a sweater? Basically making two tiny heirloom throw blankets for the front and back panels with a little shaping around the neckline, seam it up and add sleeves. Could it work? Will the stars perfectly align?

The answer is… Almost! I added some extra double crochets to the beginning and end of each row (around the cabling pattern from the blanket) to give the right dimensions for sizing and voila! I used a cable technique from the bodice to create simple cabling on the sleeves, finished it off with a bit of knit-like ribbing and this sweater is perfect!

Lion Brand Yarn has created a kit for this project that includes all the yarn you need to make it for your size and a printed copy of the pattern below! It’s available now on their website HERE & you can get 20% off your order if you grab it this week only (ends 1/7/2018).

It’s fitting that I publish this pattern right between Christmas and the New Year, being a big milestone for me. I never thought I could make wearables, let alone design them. And a cabled sweater of this advanced level?! No way! I started my blog about two years ago to the day and it has taken on a life of its own. It’s grown with and without me and I am so full of joy to hop out of bed in the morning and do this job. So thank YOU from the bottom of my heart for sticking with me through this journey. We’ve only just begun!

PATTERNS I LOVE (& you should too)

1. Crochet Homemaker Gingham Throw / 2. Crochet Everyday Cardigan / 3. Crochet Le Nuage Wrap/Triangle Scarf

 

I’ve embedded the video here from the heirloom cabled throw that goes through the cabling pattern stitch by stitch – it’s exactly the same as the cabling pattern on this sweater, just beware of how many Dc’s you need to make for your size before the cabling begins. For all sizes the cabling pattern is the same. (The sleeve cables aren’t covered in the video below but once you make the front and back panels you’ll understand how to make the sleeves!)

PATTERN

• Get the ad-free, large print, printable PDF pattern HERE.
• Grab the Ultimate Pattern Bundle that includes this pattern and 100+ others for under $30 HERE.
• PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later HERE.
• Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE.

Materials:

-Lion Brand Vanna’s Style Yarn in Silver (size XS: 5 skeins, Small: 6 skeins, Medium: 6 skeins, Large: 7 skeins, XL: 7 skeins, 2XL: 8 skeins, 3XL: 8 skeins)

Grab your kit from Lion Brand here!

-Size H 5mm crochet hook

-tapestry needle

-stitch markers

(Click HERE to shop all my favorite tools!)

Gauge:

14 Dc sts = 4″

10 Rows = 4″

Sizing:

Bust: 30″ (XS) 34″ (S) 38″ (M) 42 ” (L) 46″ (XL) 50″ (XXL) 54″ (XXXL)
Width across back: 17″ (XS) 18″ (S) 19″ (M) 20″ (L) 21″ (XL) 22″ (XXL) 23″ (XXXL)
Length: 21″ (XS) 22″ (S) 23″ (M) 23.5″ (L) 24″ (XL) 24.5″ (XXL) 24.5″ (XXXL)
Armhole: 6″ (XS) 6.5″ (S) 6.5″ (M) 7″ (L) 7″ (XL) 7.5″ (XXL) 8″ (XXXL)
Sleeve Length: 16.5″ (XS) 17″ (S) 17″ (M) 17.5″ (L) 17.5″ (XL) 18″ (XXL) 18″ (XXXL)

Notes:

-Difficulty level: 4/Advanced

-For reference, model is 5’5” tall, and wearing the Heirloom Cabled Sweater in a size Medium.

-Sizing listed in the pattern will be in X-Small with Small, Medium, Large, Xl, 2X, and 3X listed in parenthesis such as 36 “(41, 46, 51, 56, 61, 66)” whereas Ch 36 for size XS, 41 for size S, 46 for size M, 51 for size L, 56 for size XL, 61 for size 2X and 66 for size 3X. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle/highlight all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.

-This pullover is worked in 5 pieces, the front and back panels, 2 sleeve panels (all bottom up beginning with ribbing), and the neckline ribbing, then seamed together.

-All of the cabling in this sweater (front and back) is the exact same cabling pattern from my Heirloom Cabled Blanket. See the video tutorial for these cabled stitches HERE.

-All sizing is true to size and based on the CYC sizing regulations.

Abbreviations (US terms):

ch – chain

dc – double crochet

fpdc – front post double crochet

bpdc – back post double crochet

fptc – front post triple/treble crochet

rep – repeat

sc – single crochet

sk – skip

st(s) – stitch(es)

t – turn

Special stitches:

• Front Post Treble Crochet (Fptc): Yarn Over (YO) twice, insert hook behind post of stitch (insert hook from front to back). YO and pull up a loop, [YO and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times.
• Front Post Double Crochet
(Fpdc): YO, insert hook behind post of stitch (insert hook from front to back of stitch), YO, pull up a loop, YO, (pull through 2 loops) twice.
• Back Post Single Crochet (Bpsc):Insert hook in front of post of stitch (insert hook from back to front of stitch), YO and pull up loop, YO and draw through two loops on hook.
• Blo hdc sl st (back loop only half double crochet slip stitch worked for all ribbing): YO, insert hook into back loop only and pull up a loop, pull through both loops on hook to slip stitch

Back panel:

Ch 68 (72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 92) Dc in 3^rd st and each st across, Ch 2, t

Row 2: Dc in each st, Ch 2, t

Row 3: Dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), fpdc, dc, fpdc, dc 2, sk 2, fptc 2, dc skipped 2, dc 2, sk 2, dc 2, fptc skipped 2, dc 2, fpdc, dc, fpdc, dc 2, fpdc 3, sk 3, fptc 3, dc skipped 3 (work behind the fptc just made into the top of the dc from Row 1), fpdc 3, dc 2, fpdc, dc, fpdc, dc 2, sk 2, fptc 2, dc skipped 2, dc 2, sk 2, dc 2, fptc skipped 2, dc 2, fpdc, dc, fpdc, dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), ch 2, t

Row 4: Dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), bpdc, dc, bpdc, dc 2, bpdc 2, dc 6, bpdc 2, dc 2, bpdc, dc, bpdc, dc 2, bpdc 3, dc 3, bpdc 6, dc 2, bpdc, dc, bpdc, dc 2, bpdc 2, dc 6, bpdc 2, dc 2, bpdc, dc, bpdc, dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), ch 2, t

Row 5: Dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), sk 2, fptc, dc 2nd skipped st (work behind the fptc just made into the top of the dc from Row 3), fptc 1st skippedst, dc 2, sk 2, fptc 2, dc skipped 2, dc 2, sk 2, dc 2, fptc skipped 2, dc 2, sk 2, fptc, dc 2nd skipped st (work behind the fptc just made into the top of the dc from Row 3), fptc 1st skipped st, dc 2, sk 3, fptc 3, fptc skipped 3, sk 3, fptc 3, fptc skipped 3, dc 2, sk 2, fptc, dc 2nd skipped st (work behind the fptc just made into the top of the dc from Row 3), fptc 1st skipped st, dc 2, sk 2, fptc 2, dc skipped 2, dc 2, sk 2, dc 2, fptc skipped 2, dc 2, sk 2, fptc, dc 2nd skipped st (work behind the fptc just made into the top of the dc from Row 3), fptc 1st skipped st, dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), ch 2, t

Row 6: Dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), bpdc, dc, bpdc, dc 2, bpdc 2, dc 6, bpdc 2, dc 2, bpdc, dc, bpdc, dc 2, bpdc 3, dc 3, bpdc 3, dc 5, bpdc, dc, bpdc, dc 2, bpdc 2, dc 6, bpdc 2, dc 2, bpdc, dc, bpdc, dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), ch 2, t

Rep Rows 3-6 until you’ve completed Row 49 (51, 53, 55, 57, 59, 59).

Shoulder Shaping

*Note: Continue with the cable pattern you have for the first cable – both Rows 2 and 4 versions of this cable are listed for convenience.

Right side:

Row 1: Dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), fpdc, dc, fpdc (or sk 2, fptc, dc 2nd skipped st fptc 1st skipped st) dc 2, sk 2, fptc 2, dc skipped 2, dc 2, Ch 2, t

Row 2: Dc 4, bpdc 2, dc 2, bpdc, dc, bpdc, dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), ch 2, t

Rows 3-2: Repeat Rows 1-2

Finish off, sk 34 sts from last Row of back panel (even with Row 1 of shoulder shaping), join yarn to work shoulder shaping on other side.

Left side

Row 1: Ch 2, Dc in same st and next, sk 2, dc 2, fptc skipped 2, dc 2, fpdc, dc, fpdc (or sk 2, fptc, dc 2nd skipped st fptc 1st skipped st) dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), ch 2, t

Row 2: Dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), bpdc, dc, bpdc, dc 2, bpdc 2, dc 4

Rows 3-2: Repeat Rows 1-2

Finish off, weave ends.

Front panel:

Work same for your size as Back panel.

Rep Rows 2-5 until you’ve completed Row 41 (44, 47, 49, 51, 53, 53).

Shoulder Shaping

*Note: Continue with the cable pattern you have for the first cable – both Rows 2 and 4 versions of this cable are listed for convenience.

Right side:

Row 1: Dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), fpdc, dc, fpdc (or sk 2, fptc, dc 2nd skipped st fptc 1st skipped st) dc 2, sk 2, fptc 2, dc skipped 2, dc 2, sk 2, dc 2, fptc skipped 2, dc 2, Ch 2, t

Row 2: Sk 1^st st, Dc next, Bpdc 2, Dc 6, bpdc 2, dc 2, bpdc, dc, bpdc, dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), ch 2, t

Row 3: Dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), fpdc, dc, fpdc (or sk 2, fptc, dc 2nd skipped st fptc 1st skipped st) dc 2, sk 2, fptc 2, dc skipped 2, dc 4, Ch 2, t

Row 4: Sk 1^st st, Dc next 5, bpdc 2, dc 2, bpdc, dc, bpdc, dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), ch 2, t

Row 5: Dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), fpdc, dc, fpdc (or sk 2, fptc, dc 2nd skipped st fptc 1st skipped st) dc 2, sk 2, fptc 2, dc skipped 2, dc 2, Ch 2, t

Row 6: Dc 4, bpdc 2, dc 2, bpdc, dc, bpdc, dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), ch 2, t

Rows 7-8: Repeat Rows 5-6

Finish off, sk 24 sts from last Row of front panel (even with Row 1 of shoulder shaping), join yarn to work shoulder shaping on other side.

Left side

Row 1: Ch 2, sk 2, fptc 2, dc skipped 2, Dc 2, sk 2, dc 2, fptc skipped 2, dc 2, fpdc, dc, fpdc (or sk 2, fptc, dc 2nd skipped st fptc 1st skipped st) dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), ch 2, t

Row 2: Dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), bpdc, dc, bpdc, dc 2, bpdc 2, dc 6, bpdc 2, Ch 2, t

Row 3: sk 1^st st, Dc next 3, sk 2, dc 2, fptc skipped 2, dc 2, fpdc, dc, fpdc (or sk 2, fptc, dc 2nd skipped st fptc 1st skipped st) dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), ch 2, t

Row 4: Dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), bpdc, dc, bpdc, dc 2, bpdc 2, dc 4, Ch 2, t

Row 5: Dc 2, sk 2, dc 2, fptc skipped 2, dc 2, fpdc, dc, fpdc (or sk 2, fptc, dc 2nd skipped st fptc 1st skipped st) dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), ch 2, t

Row 6: Dc 2 (6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26), bpdc, dc, bpdc, dc 2, bpdc 2, dc 4

Rows 7-8: Repeat Rows 5-6

Finish off, weave ends.

Sleeves:

*make 2

Ribbing

Ch 12, Hdc in 3 st from hook and in each st, Ch 2, t

Row 2: Blo hdc sl st in each st, Ch 2, t

Repeat Row 2 until you’ve made 27 Rows.

Turn ribbing to work down rough edge.

Row 1: Sc in each Row of hemline ribbing, Ch 2, t

Row 2: Dc in each st, Ch 2, t

Row 3: Dc 8, sk 2, fptc 2, dc skipped 2, dc 3, sk 2, dc 2, fptc skipped 2, dc 8, Ch 2, t

Row 4: Dc inc, dc 6, dc inc, bpdc 2, dc 7, bpdc 2, dc inc, dc 6, dc inc, Ch 2, t

Row 5: Dc 10, sk 2, fptc 2, dc skipped 2, dc 3, sk 2, dc 2, fptc skipped 2, dc 10, Ch 2, t

Row 6: Dc inc, dc 8, dc inc, bpdc 2, dc 7, bpdc 2, dc inc, dc 8, dc inc, Ch 2, t

Row 7: Dc 12, sk 2, fptc 2, dc skipped 2, dc 3, sk 2, dc 2, fptc skipped 2, dc 12, Ch 2, t

Row 8: Dc inc, dc 10, dc inc, bpdc 2, dc 7, bpdc 2, dc inc, dc 10, dc inc, Ch 2, t

Row 9: Dc 14, sk 2, fptc 2, dc skipped 2, dc 3, sk 2, dc 2, fptc skipped 2, dc 14, Ch 2, t

Row 10: Dc 14, bpdc 2, dc 7, bpdc 2, dc 14, Ch 2, t

Rows 11-12: Repeat Rows 9-10

Row 13: Repeat Row 9

Row 14: Dc inc, dc 12, dc inc, bpdc 2, dc 7, bpdc 2, dc inc, dc 12, dc inc, Ch 2, t

Row 15: Dc 16, sk 2, fptc 2, dc skipped 2, dc 3, sk 2, dc 2, fptc skipped 2, dc 16, Ch 2, t

Row 16: Dc 16, bpdc 2, dc 7, bpdc 2, dc 16, Ch 2, t

Rows 17-20: Repeat Rows 15-16

*Size X-Small: Continue repeating Rows 15-16 until you finish Row 34, Finish off here, weave ends

Row 21: Repeat Row 15

Row 22: Dc inc, dc 14, dc inc, bpdc 2, dc 7, bpdc 2, dc inc, dc 14, dc inc, Ch 2, t

Row 23: Dc 18, sk 2, fptc 2, dc skipped 2, dc 3, sk 2, dc 2, fptc skipped 2, dc 18, Ch 2, t

Row 24: Dc 18, bpdc 2, dc 7, bpdc 2, dc 18, Ch 2, t

Rows 25-26: Repeat Rows 23-24

*Sizes Small/Medium: Continue repeating Rows 23-24 until you finish Row 35, Finish off here, weave ends

Row 27: Repeat Row 23

Row 28: Dc inc, dc 16, dc inc, bpdc 2, dc 7, bpdc 2, dc inc, dc 16, dc inc, Ch 2, t

Row 29: Dc 20, sk 2, fptc 2, dc skipped 2, dc 3, sk 2, dc 2, fptc skipped 2, dc 20, Ch 2, t

Row 30: Dc 20, bpdc 2, dc 7, bpdc 2, dc 20, Ch 2, t

Rows 31-32: Repeat Rows 29-30

*Size Large/XL: Continue repeating Rows 29-30 until you finish Row 37, Finish off here, weave ends

Row 33: Repeat Row 29

Row 34: Dc inc, dc 18, dc inc, bpdc 2, dc 7, bpdc 2, dc inc, dc 18, dc inc, Ch 2, t

Row 35: Dc 22, sk 2, fptc 2, dc skipped 2, dc 3, sk 2, dc 2, fptc skipped 2, dc 22, Ch 2, t

Row 36: Dc 22, bpdc 2, dc 7, bpdc 2, dc 22, Ch 2, t

Row 37: Dc 22, sk 2, fptc 2, dc skipped 2, dc 3, sk 2, dc 2, fptc skipped 2, dc 22, Ch 2, t

*Size XXL: Finish off here, weave ends

Row 38: Dc inc, dc 20, dc inc, bpdc 2, dc 7, bpdc 2, dc inc, dc 20, dc inc, Ch 2, t

Row 39: Dc 24, sk 2, fptc 2, dc skipped 2, dc 3, sk 2, dc 2, fptc skipped 2, dc 24

*Size XXXL: Finish off here, weave ends

Seaming:

Body – side seams

Cut two pieces of yarn each about 6′ long.

Using only mattress stitches and a tapestry needle, sew up the side seams beginning with the hemline. Leave an armhole at the top appropriate for your size (see sizing measurements above).

Weave ends.

Body – shoulder seams

Cut two pieces of yarn each about 2′ long.

Mattress stitch to sew up the shoulder seams on each side of the V neckline, working into the tops of the stitches from each panel.

Sleeves

Cut two pieces of yarn each about 6′ long.

Mattress stitch to sew up the length of the sleeve by matching up the raw edges row for row. Mattress stitch to sew last Row of sleeve to the armhole. Weave ends and repeat sewing on other sleeve.

Neckline Ribbing:

Ch 12, Hdc in 3rd st from hook and next st, Ch 2, t

Row 2: Blo hdc sl st in each st, Ch 2, t

Repeat Row 2 until you’ve made 95 Rows, finish off leaving a tail about 6′ long.

Affix ribbing to the neckline with stitch markers as pictured to be sure the ribbing is evenly spaced around the neckline (there should be no bunching or stretching here.

Mattress stitch along the rough edge of your ribbing and sew neckline ribbing around the neckline of your sweater. Be sure to begin and end your sewing at either the back center of the back panel neckline or matched up with one of the side shoulder seams. Sew up Row 1 to Row 95 and weave ends.

 

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