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Easy Pullover Sweater – Free Crochet Pattern

September 20, 2018 by Ashleigh

The Crochet Pucker Pullover is one of my favorite patterns from the summer so I’m bringing it back in a new fall feature!

You might remember this pattern from when I first posted it here on the blog earlier this year. This post holds the same pattern, showing you a bit of a different way to style it!

This pullover is light and breezy through all four seasons and transitions beautifully from summer into fall. I loved wearing it with shorts all summer but it’s a great layer to add during those unpredictable transitional days (do we need a tank top or an overcoat? During fall the answer is often BOTH. Le sigh.)

SWEATER PATTERNS I LOVE (& you should too)

1. Crochet Twist Swancho / 2. Crochet Everyday Cardigan / 3. Simple Knit Sweater

The Yarn

Oh Lion Brand ZZ Twist yarn, how I love you. Your color is what got my attention at first but once I crocheted with you, that smoothness and drape is what made me fall in love. Ahhhh sweet harmony.

In all seriousness, ZZ Twist is my favorite yarn that LB has released this year, and they’ve been cranking out the showstoppers. It has everything I want – texture, depth, softness, and a mighty fine price point. I’ve never been happier with a $5 purchase in my life! Click HERE to shop through my link (which supports my biz at no extra cost to you, hooray!)

This pattern would be beautiful worked up in any of the stunning colors Lion Brand ZZ Twist yarn offers, especially when thinking about pretty autumnal colors (helloooooo cranberry!). All of the colors in this particular line were dreamed up with garments in mind (remember I used the Peacock color in my Twist Swancho) and are so refined, elevated, and rich.

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PATTERN

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To sum it up:

The crochet Pucker Pullover is a slightly fitted raglan style sweater with open window stitches that lend to comfy breathability through all four seasons. With minimal shaping and easy seamless construction, this pullover is great for those wanting to try out crocheting a raglan for the very first time.

Materials:

–Lion Brand ZZ Twist yarn (Weight: 4/Medium – 3.5oz, 246 yds)

Color: Green Apple – 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6) skeins (approx. 340, 390, 400, 450, 480, 530, 550 g)

–Size I 5.5 mm hook

–Tapestry needle

–Measuring tape or ruler

Click here to shop all my favorite tools!

Sizes:

XS, S, M, L, Xl, 2XL, 3XL

Gauge:

15 sts x 10 rows in Dc = 4”

Measurements:

Bust: 28 (32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52)“
Width across back: 14 (15, 15.5, 16.5, 17.5, 18, 18)″
Length: 19.5 (20, 21, 21.5, 22, 23, 23)″
Armhole: 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9)″
Sleeve Length: 17 (18, 18, 18, 19, 19)″

Abbreviations (US terms):

Ch – chain

st st – slip stitch

Sc – single crochet

Dc – double crochet

Dc3tog – double crochet three together

sk – skip

st(s) – stitch(es)

t – turn

rpt – repeat

* – repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed

* * – repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as directed or repeat at specified locations

( ) – within round instruction: work instructions within parentheses as many times as directed or work a group of stitches all in the same stitch or space

( ) – at end of round: round stitch count

Skill Level: Level 3 Intermediate

Pattern Notes:

– This sweater fits true to size. For reference, model is 5’5” tall with a 38” bust and wearing the Pucker Pullover in size Medium. If you are between sizes, please size up.

– Sizing listed in the pattern will be in X-Small with Small, Medium, Large, Xl, 2X, and 3X listed in parenthesis such as 36 “(41, 46, 51, 56, 61, 66)” whereas Ch 36 for size XS, 41 for size S, 46 for size M, 51 for size L, 56 for size XL, 61 for size 2X and 66 for size 3X. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle/highlight all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.

– Pattern is worked in a yoked top-down method, but don’t let that scare you. We will just crochet in the round to complete the neckline, leave spaces for armholes, and continue in the round to make the body. Rejoin yarn to the armholes and work down the sleeve with easy shaping.

– Entire pattern works alternating “solid rounds” and “window rounds” (marked in the pattern).

– s does count as a stitch.

– Ch 1, skip 1 does count as a stitch on window rounds.

– Ch 2 at end of rounds & Ch2 at corners of yoke do not count as a stitch.

-To avoid a crooked seam down the back of your sweater you can turn at the end of each round.

–You’ll notice that the photos have an extra round of Dc’s at the neckline – ignore this and follow the written pattern!

– Please note that the chart shows the turning chain as a stitch, it does not count as a stitch for all ch 2 rows.

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Crochet Pucker Pullover

Round 1: Ch 52 (60, 68, 76, 84, 92, 100) sl st to first Ch (next to slip knot) to form a ring, Ch 2, (52, 60, 68, 76, 84, 92, 100)

*Or begin with foundation Dcs for a neckline with more stretch and skip to round 3*

Round 2:Dc in each Ch st around, sl st to 1st Dc to join, Ch 2 (52, 60, 68, 76, 84, 92, 100)

Round 3: Dc in next 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11), *2 Dc in next Dc, Ch 2, (skip no sts)2 Dc in next Dc, Dc in next 11 (13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23); rpt from * 2 more times, 2 Dc in next Dc, Ch 2, (skip no sts)2 Dc in next Dc, Dc in next 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12), to join, Ch 2 (60, 68, 76, 84, 92, 100, 108)

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Round 4 (window round): Dc in first Dc, *Ch 1, sk 1, Dc; rpt from * to first Ch 2 space, **Ch 1, (Dc, Ch 2, Dc) in Ch 2 space, Ch 1, Dc in immediate next st, [*Ch 1, sk 1, Dc; rpt from * to next Ch 2 space]; rpt from ** 2 more times, (Dc, Ch 2, Dc) in Ch 2 space, Dc in immeditate next st, *Ch 1, sk 1, Dc; rpt from * to end, sl st to 1st Dc to join, Ch 2 (76, 84, 92, 100, 108, 116, 124)

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Round 5 (solid round): Dc in each Dc and Ch 1 space to first Ch 2 space, *(2 Dc, Ch 2, 2 Dc) in Ch 2 space, Dc in next Dc and each Ch 1 and Dc to next Ch 2 space; rpt from * 2 more times, (2 Dc, Ch 2, 2 Dc) in Ch 2 space, Dc in next Dc and each Ch 1 and Dc to end, sl st to 1st Dc to join, Ch 2 (92, 100, 108, 116, 124, 132, 140)

 

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Alternate rounds 4 and 5 until you complete the appropriate number of rows for your size.

Yoke Stitch Table Work to Row: Length of yoke (neckline to last yoke round @ increases) Stitch count – last yoke round
XS 12 7” 204
S 14 8” 244
M 14 8” 252
L 16 9” 292
XL 16 9” 300
XXL 18 10” 340
XXXL 18 10” 348

All sizes should finish with a window round.

Now we will divide the body for sleeves in our next solid Row.

Dividing Row: Dc in each Dc and Ch 1 space to first Ch 2 space, 2 Dc into first Ch 2 space, Ch 3, sk to next Ch 2 space, 2 Dc into 2nd Ch 2 space, Dc in each Dc and Ch 1 space to third Ch 2 space, 2 Dc into third Ch 2 space, Ch 3, sk to next Ch 2 space, 2 Dc into last Ch 2 space, Dc in each Dc and Ch 1 space to end, sl st to 1st Dc to join, Ch 2 (110, 130, 134, 154, 158, 178, 182)

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Body:

Round 1: Dc in first Dc, *[Ch 1, sk 1 Dc; rpt to space], Ch 1, sk 1 Ch, Dc into 2nd Ch, Ch 1, sk 1 Ch, Dc into next Dc; rpt from * once more, *, sl st to 1st Dc to join, Ch 2 (116, 136, 140, 160, 164, 184, 188)

Round 2 (solid round): Dc in each Dc and Ch 1 space around, sl st to 1st Dc to join, Ch 2 (116, 136, 140, 160, 164, 184, 188)

Round 3 (window round): Dc in first Dc, *Ch 1, sk 1, Dc; rpt from * around, Ch 1, sk last Dc, sl st to 1st Dc to join, Ch 2 (116, 136, 140, 160, 164, 184, 188)

Alternate Rounds 2 and 3 until you complete Round 26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 36)

If you’d like to make your pullover longer, simply add more rounds. Just be sure to always end with a solid round.

Hemline:

Round 1: Dc in each Dc around, sl st to 1st Dc to join, Ch 2 (116, 136, 140, 160, 164, 184, 188)

Round 2: Dc in each Dc around, sl st to 1st Dc to join, Ch 1 (116, 136, 140, 160, 164, 184, 188)

Round 3: Sc in each Dc around, sl st to 1st sc to join, finish off, weave ends (116, 136, 140, 160, 164, 184, 188)

Sleeves:

Join yarn to first Dc just to the left of underarm Ch 3 space.

Round 1: Ch 2, work 7 Dc evenly across rough edges of corner stitches and underarm Ch 3 space, Dc in the top of each unworked st on the yoke armhole around, sl st to 1st Dc to join, Ch 2 (57, 67, 69, 79, 81, 91, 93)

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Round 2 (window round): Dc in first Dc, *Ch 1, sk 1, Dc; rpt from * around, Ch 1, sl st to 1st Dc to join, Ch 2 (57, 67, 69, 79, 81, 91, 93)

Round 3 (decrease round): Dc in first st, *Dc3tog over next Ch 1, Dc, and Ch 1 spaces, Dc in next 5 (count Dc and Ch 1 spaces); rpt from* around, Dc in any remaining sts, sl st to 1st Dc to join, Ch 2 (43, 51, 53, 61, 61, 69, 71)

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Round 4: Rpt Round 2 (window round) (43, 51, 53, 61, 61, 69, 71)

Round 5 (solid round): Dc in each Dc and Ch 1 space around, sl st to 1st Dc to join, Ch 2 (43, 51, 53, 61, 61, 69, 71)

Alternate Rounds 4 and 5 until you complete Row 20 (22, 22, 22, 24, 24, 24)

Round 21 (23, 23, 23, 25, 25, 25): Rpt Round 3 (decrease round) (33, 39, 41, 47, 47, 51, 55)

Alternate Rounds 4 and 5 until you complete Row 38 (40, 40, 40, 42, 42, 42)

Round 38 (40, 40, 40, 42, 42, 42): Rpt Round 3 (decrease round) (25, 31, 31, 37, 37, 39, 43)

Repeat Rounds 4 and 5 once more each.

Cuff:

Round 1: Dc in each Dc around, sl st to 1st Dc to join, (25, 31, 31, 37, 37, 39, 43)

Round 2: Sc in each Dc around, sl st to 1st Dc to join, finish off, weave ends (25, 31, 31, 37, 37, 39, 43)

Repeat entire sleeve on other armhole.

Weave all ends.

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Filed Under: pullovers, sweaters

Comments

  1. blankHappyHooker says

    September 21, 2018 at 10:24 am

    Ooooo this is gorgeous! Been wanting to try a top-down sweater for ages, but I’m not that advanced. This looks like something I could manage. Thanks for such clear instructions, with all the photos. Love your designs –

  2. blankDara says

    September 24, 2018 at 9:33 pm

    Making this now in ZZ Twist yarn in the Cranberry. I can’t wait to finish and wear it.

    • blankChloe says

      September 25, 2018 at 4:18 pm

      I loved making this sweater in Cranberry such a beautiful color

  3. blankBarbara Hatherall says

    September 27, 2018 at 12:56 pm

    Love this I have been looking for a crocheted raglan sleeved sweater pattern for some time. But unfortunately Unable to get the yarn used in the U.K. Do you think it can be worked using a Double knit? I think its called light worsted in the U.S.

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Welcome, I'm Ashleigh!

I design crochet and knitting patterns when I'm not indulging in chocolate chip cookies & Gilmore Girls.

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