Crochet Rainier Sweater – Free Pattern

Crochet the warmest, comfiest pullover every – the Rainier Sweater!

I’ll tell you all about the design inspiration, the yarn I used (and why it’s awesome) plus some other fun details about this sweater below – or scroll on down for the free pattern.

The Design

My husband and I took a trip in August to Seattle, Washington (if you follow me on Instagram, you probably saw a ton of it!). We did a lot of walking the city, eating biscuits, and sipping coffee while looking out at Puget Sound. We even rode a ferry boat and went up in the Space Needle!

Of all the things we did in Washington, our favorite thing was driving out of town to Mount Rainier. The view even brought me to tears – I’m not kidding! Where we live in Southwest Florida doesn’t have so much as a molehill, let alone a snowcapped mountain. We don’t have gigantic Christmas-looking hemlock trees, or wildflower adorned trails to hike. So getting to experience these things were so special to us and I knew I had to take that inspiration and turn it into a design!

While looking at the sweeping vista that I can only describe as Lord of the Rings-esque, I thought about the kind of sweater I’d wear to hike that type of mountain. It would need to be warm, comfortable, and a marled grey look would fit in so well with the natural environment. I worked in a couple of additional design elements like textured ribbing and a fold-over V neckline to add some interest and flex.

OTHER SWEATER PATTERNS I LOVE (& you should too)

1. Crochet Twist Swancho / 2. Crochet Everyday Cardigan / 3. Simple Knit Sweater

The Fit

The Rainier Sweater is boxy and broken-in feeling fresh off the hook! It’s slightly oversized through the body with great give through the sleeve. There is a bit of extra length than a normal sweater to offer extra coverage through the hip or to be worn sort of bunched up and comfy at the waist as pictured.

I love how roomy this sweater feels and how open the neckline is – being that crochet fabric isn’t as forgiving and stretchy as knit fabric, we don’t want to stretch out the neckline pulling it on and off over our heads.

The Yarn

I chose to use Lion Brand Heartland yarn for this sweater for a couple of reasons – I needed a drapey worsted weight yarn in a marled grey color.

And what did I find while perusing the Lion Brand website?! The perfect marled grey from the Heartland line called Mount Rainier! That’s the name of the colorway you guys! As my grandmother used to say when she would find the first parking spot at the grocery store, “Can you believe our good fortune?!”

As soon as I saw that name, I knew I had to make this sweater in that exact yarn – and boy, I am glad I did! It wound up being the softest, warmest choice I could have made and it really just feels like the stars aligned bringing this yarn and this pattern together.

You can grab the perfect Mount Rainier yarn by clicking here – thank you for always shopping through the links you find here on the blog, it helps support this blog & its free patterns!

PATTERN

• Get the ad-free, large print, printable PDF pattern HERE.
• Grab the Ultimate Pattern Bundle that includes 150+ patterns just like this one on sale for $20 today HERE.
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• Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE.

To sum it up: The Rainier Sweater is a V necked pullover with delicate ribbing along all the edges and simple single crochet stitches throughout. It’s a thick, warm pullover with excellent drape and excellent texture for a day around the house or a hike in the woods!

Materials:

-Lion Brand Heartland yarn in Mount Rainier (Weight: 4/Medium – 5 oz, 251 yds)

Color: Mount Rainier 5 (6, 6, 7, 8, 9, 9) skeins

Grab your yarn for 20% off this week only by clicking HERE!

–Size I 5.5 mm crochet hook

–Measuring tape

–Tapestry needle

–Stitch markers

Grab all of my favorite tools & materials HERE!

Sizes:

XS, S, M, L, Xl, 2XL, 3XL

Gauge:

15 sts x 18 rows in sc = 4”

Measurements:

Bust: 36 (39, 41, 42, 43, 45, 47)“

Width across back: 14 (15, 15.5, 16.5, 17.5, 18, 18)″

Length: 22.5 (23, 24, 24.5, 25, 26, 26)″

Armhole: 8 (9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.5)″

Sleeve Length: 18 (19, 19, 20, 21, 21, 22)″

Abbreviations (US terms):

ch – chain

Sc – single crochet

Sc2tog – single crochet 2 together

sl st – slip stitch

t – turn

BLO – back loop only

Skill Level:

Level 3 Intermediate

Pattern Notes

-This sweater fits oversized. For reference, model is 5’5” tall with a 38” bust and wearing the Rainier Sweater in size Medium.

-Sizing listed in the pattern will be in X-Small with Small, Medium, Large, Xl, 2X, and 3X listed in parenthesis such as 36 “(41, 46, 51, 56, 61, 66)” whereas Ch 36 for size XS, 41 for size S, 46 for size M, 51 for size L, 56 for size XL, 61 for size 2X and 66 for size 3X. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle/highlight all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.

-Pattern is worked in a raglan style first by making the collar, then moving on seamlessly to the yoke neckline in turned rows, joining at a dividing row to create the armholes, continuing with the body in turned rows, and working sleeves seamlessly off the yoke. All ribbing is crocheted separately and sewn on later.

-Entire pattern is worked in turned rows to maintain a consistent look.

-Adjusting length of the sweater is easy, just add or take away rows in multiples of 2 rows.

-Chain 1 at end of row does not count as a stitch.

Crochet Rainier Sweater

Collar:

Ch 57 (60, 63, 66, 69, 72, 75)

Row 1: Sc in 2^nd st from hook and each across, Ch 1, t (56, 59, 62, 65, 68, 71, 74)

Row 2: Sc2tog, Sc until 2 sts remain, t do not chain at end of row (54, 57, 60, 63, 66, 69, 72)

Rep Row 2 until you’ve finished Row 31 (32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47)

Raglan:

Row 1: 2 Sc, Sc, *3 Sc, Sc next 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14); rep from * twice more, 3 Sc, Sc, 2 Sc, Ch 1, t (42, 45, 48, 51, 54, 57, 60)

Place stitch markers in the 2^nd (or middle st) of each cluster of 3 Sc. As you proceed with the yoke replace stitch markers in the 2^nd st of each cluster of 3 Sc.

Row 2: 2 Sc, Sc to first stitch marker, *3 Sc, Sc to next stitch marker; rep from * twice more, 3 Sc, Sc to end, 2 Sc in last st, Ch 1, t (52, 55, 58, 61, 64, 67, 70)

Rep Row 2 once more (62, 65, 68, 71, 74, 77, 80)

Row 4: Sc to first stitch marker, *3 Sc, Sc to next stitch marker; rep from * twice more, 3 Sc, Sc to end, Ch 1, t (70, 73, 76, 79, 82, 85, 88)

Rep Row 4 until you’ve finished Row 27 (30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 36) (254, 281, 292, 303, 314, 325, 344)

Dividing Row:

Sc to first st marker, Sc, skip 62 (69, 72, 75, 78, 81, 86) sts to next st marker, Sc, Sc 62 (69, 72, 75, 78, 81, 86) sts to next st marker, Sc, skip to next st marker, Sc, Sc to end, Ch 6, sl st to first Sc of dividing Row to join, finish off yarn (130, 143, 148, 153, 158, 163, 172 Sc)

Body:

Join yarn directly under one armhole. We will continue working in turned rounds and want to keep our seam along the side of the body.

Ch 1

Round 1: Sc in each st and chain around, sl st to join, Ch 1, t (136, 149, 154, 159, 164, 169, 178)

Rpt Round 1 until you’ve finished Row 63 (65, 65, 68, 68, 70, 70)

Sleeve:

Join yarn to the underarm of the sleeve at the dividing row.

Ch 1

Round 1: Sc in each st around, sl st to join, Ch 1, t (62, 69, 72, 75, 78, 81, 86)

Round 2: Sc2tog, Sc in remaining sts around, sl st to join, Ch 1, t (61, 68, 71, 74, 77, 80, 85)

Rep Rounds 1-2 until you’ve finished Round 72 (76, 76, 82, 86, 86, 90) or until your sleeve measures 2” shorter than you’d like the final sleeve length to be (26, 31, 34, 34, 35, 38, 41)

Round 73 (77, 77, 83, 87, 87, 91): *Sc2tog, Sc; Rpt from * 7 (9, 10, 10, 10, 11, 12) more times, Sc in remaining 2 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2) st(s), sl st to join, Ch 1, t (18, 21, 23, 23, 24, 26, 28)

Round 74 (78, 78, 84, 88, 88, 92): Sc in each st around, sl st to join, Ch 1, t (18, 21, 23, 23, 24, 26, 29)

Round 75 (79, 79, 85, 89, 89, 93): Sc in each st around, sl st to join, finish off, weave ends (18, 21, 23, 23, 24, 26, 29)

Sleeve Ribbing:

*make 2

Ch 7

Row 1: Sc in 2^nd Ch from hook and each across, Ch 1, t (6)

Row 2: Sc BLO in each st across, Ch 1, t (6)

Rpt Row 2 until you’ve finished Row 18 (21, 23, 23, 24, 26, 29) (6)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Sew ribbing around last Row of sleeve, matching up one row of ribbing for each stitch in the sleeve row. Sew foundation Ch and last Row of ribbing together at the end. Weave all ends.

Body Ribbing:

Ch 7

Row 1: Sc in 2^nd Ch from hook and each across, Ch 1, t (6)

Row 2: Sc BLO in each st across, Ch 1, t (6)

Rpt Row 2 until you’ve finished Row 136 (149, 154, 159, 164, 169, 178) (6)

Finish off leaving a very long tail for sewing.

Sew ribbing around last Row of body, matching up one row of ribbing for each stitch in the body row. Sew foundation Ch and last Row of ribbing together at the end. Weave all ends.

Neckline Ribbing:

*make 2

Ch 7

Row 1: Sc in 2^nd Ch from hook and each across, Ch 1, t (6)

Row 2: Sc BLO in each st across, Ch 1, t (6)

Rpt Row 2 until you’ve finished Row 39 (42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 48) (6)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Sew ribbing to V neckline, matching up one row of ribbing for each row along the opening at the neckline and up onto collar edge. Sew foundation Ch of ribbing to Ch 6 at base of neckline. Weave all ends.

Sew second piece in the same way over the other side of the neckline. Pieces will overlap at center.

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